Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/69

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This arises from a 'too short' front edge or an insufficient length from the neck point to the bottom, and as will be seen the remedy is to lengthen it at the neck point as per dotted line.

This defect can be easily remedied by taking it in at the centere of back and letting it out at the side

This although by no means a serious defect, yet is a very unsightly one. It may arise from various causes, amongst which we may mention insuffciency of spring at the hips, causing the vest to ride up at that part, or the customer has drawn the buckle and strap too tight. or it may be produced by a too long front edge, and of course the remedy in each case suggests itself. We will now give a

Which although a very simple matter, yet is clearly one that is not universally understood, as was evidenced by the somewhat lengthy discussion that took place on this topic at one of our leading foreman tailors' societies. The plan here given is both simple and reliable. It consists in adding on the quantity it is desired to lengthen it on the shoulder as per the shaded part, and then cut the back across as per the shaded part, and open out the pattern the same amount as has been added to the shoulder, and by this means the balance is preserved, then add on a little more spring in the hips. Of course it will be readily followed this will necessitate a new back, but we think that will be the most satisfactory plan of remedying this defect.

This is often accompanies with looseness around the neck. The most ready method of altering this is to straighten the shoulder as illustrated on diagram 168. The last defect we shall note is in connection with sleeves, and shows itself in a series of

The way to remedy this is to sink the forearm as per dotted lines, and if necessary lengthen it at the bottom. This, we think, closes the list of defects we can note in this work, which has already far exceeded the limits we had intended such a work to take.