Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/68

Rh Creases in the front Shoulder. Dia 155

Those may invariably be traced to a too crooked shoulder which has produced a shortness from A to B and an excess of material at C, the result of which is the creases down the front shoulder, which have puzzled so many, the remedy is to let out both forwards and upwards so as to increase the length from A to B, and if considered necessary take off a small quantity at C, and in most cases this will prove satisfactory. Of course, like most other defects, it may arise from other causes, and amongst these we mention a too short collar and canvas or facings twisted, whilst we have known a too hollow front shoulder to produce this.

Coat Winging away Behind Dia. 156.

This is a defect that is often seen in both lounges and morning coats, and as it is one that can easily be remedied, we thought a diagram showing how it might be rectified would be useful. It generally arises from a too long front shoulder, or what is practically the same thing a too short back, for, of, course, the balance is governed by the relative lengths of the back and front shoulders, consequently the correct alteration is shown on diagram 156, and which consists in ripping the shoulder through and then re-adjusting it when on the figure. This is the plan many cutters adopt in order to get the correct balance when trying on and is undoubtedly the most satisfactory plan next to direct measurements. This defect sometimes arises from the front edge not being properly worked up, when the remedy suggests itself. We now come to deal with what is probably one of the most frequent defects met with in lounges and similar garments, viz:

Fullness at the Top of Sidesarm Dia. 157

This too arises from various causes, amongst which we may mention a too short front shoulder, or what has the same effect a too short collar; or the waist too much suppressed between M and L; or it is kept too flat at K, then again it often arises from a difficulty in landing the necessary fulness over the blades, and consequently the suppression at that part, eases the fulness at the back of the scye, in each case the remedy suggests itself. Some advise the taking out of a wedge as from G to H, and which makes the back seam rather round as per dot and dash line at L and J, which clears the back of seye, but it apt to land surplus length in the centre of back; it is always advisable to let the sideseam take the shape shown by the dot and dash line at K.

This, we think, will be sufficient to put the intelligent cutter on the right track, and that is all we desire to do in this work which is not specially devoted to alterations. If our readers desire a more elaborate treatment, they should not do better than procure a copy of the "Art of Trying On" as that deals with this branch of our profession in a thoroughly exhaustive manner, still a hint is often sufficient to put the cutter on the right track. We have selected a few of the most frequent sources of trouble, and on which we have the most inquiries through the Editor's Table.

This generally arises from a too straight cut shoulder, in which case the remedy is, of course to crooken it, as shown by the dotted lines at that part; but this is not always the same as it often arises from an insufficiency of room in the sleeve head, this is especially the case when this defect is apparent in ladies' garments, and as of course it is necessary to trust every defect in accordance with its cause, so the remedy is to increase the width and round of the sleeve head. The next defect we will notice is in connection with vests viz.:

This is caused through a tightness on the shoulder point, and consequently the remedy is to let it out at that part, the alteration being clearly defined by the dot and dash line. The defect arising from the opposite cause to this is