Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/67

60 referred to in the under the title of

When the following supposititious case was given: A coat was out for a customer and an inlay left all down the front of 1 inch, the coat was tried on and was found to fit splendidly, the tailor had the coat given back to him with instructions to finish it as it was, but by some means the inlay down the front got put into the garment, and as may be readily imagined the coat was too large. The cutter in order to rectify this error had the coat token in under the arms and the scye advanced. Now the result of this operation was to make the coat 1 inch more crooked in the shoulder, and consequently the coat was a misfit, and which will be readily seen would be quite different to the straightness and crookedness shown on diagram 150. Having far exceeded the space we had allotted to the consideration of this question, we will beaten on to consider the

This diagram shows at a glance the variations we should make for these figures, and may be summed up as shortening the back end lengthening the front for an erect form, and a longer beck and shorter front shoulder for a stooping form, unaccompanied with either a prominence or flatness of blades or breast, both very unusual, for the erect man is generally flat at the blades and prominent at breast, the stooping figure the reverse. If our readers will only train themselves to take the measures we have explained, with accuracy, they will bring the garment out to the right shape as far as the body is concerned by the ordinary workings of the system, merely ranging the quantities taken out between back and sidebody to provide for prominent or flat blades, and the amount added to front shoulder for prominent or flat breasts. We know the measures cannot always be taken, so we give those methods generally practised by the most successful cutters of the present day for our readers' use when working from the scale or divisions of the breast Probably there is no method of alteration for stopping and erect figures so widely practised as that shown on diagram 153, and which merely consists in a wedge being inserted in the back and a similar one taken out of the front for a stooping figure, and the wedge out of the back and put in the front for the erect figure; this method is thoroughly reliable, and we do not know of a better for three seamers or lounges, but in body costs we prefer a straighter backseam, taking out more between back and sidebody both top and bottom. which we are convinced is more correct in principle and practice.

This diagram illustrates our method of treating these variations of build when we ere unable to take our own measures: it is not necessary we should any more than to note the alterations marked F are those to make for short necks or square shoulders, E is the normal, and D is suitable for long nooks and sloping shoulders. Our explanation of this is that figures with short nooks are thicker through from side to side, and the long necks thinner, and so require the gorge lowered or raised, There is only one other variation we will note, and that is for corpulent and slander waists, and as the principle is the same for both vests and coats, we have given the diagram on a vest, see diagram 164.

The first thing to decide on is, what will be your standard of proportion? As the diagrams are drawn out in this book the waist is 4 inches smaller than the chest, so that whenever any variation exists it may be distributed $1/3$ at the side, and $2/3$ at the front, and the front lengthened at bottom $1/3$, and when an extreme case of corpulency occurs add on rather more at the front, and take out rather more at the side for a very thin one.

We will now briefly point out the remedy for a few of the leading misfits and than draw our labours to a close by a reference to the economy lays on the last Plates.