Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/65

58 (although they are often cut longer than our illustration), and the breeches tight-fitting, see diagram 113 and figure 62; the sash, however, prevents its looking by any means bare as it goes over the bottom of the jacket, and the ends hang over the breeches. The material from which these are generally made is velvet, plush, and similar materials, but. of course, it is by no means confined to either, as anything that forms a good contrast would be equally suitable. As it is not necessary at this stage to show the system for producing with every draught, we have drawn this by the aid of the designer, and if it is required to reproduce it by graduated tapes the same quantities may be taken as are marked on diagram 130. The last diagram relating to this branch is a reduced model of gaiters and which if reproduced by the ordinary inch tape, will he suitable for a boy or girl of about 8 years of age; the measures are as follows: length 16, knee $10 1/2$, small $9 1/4$, calf $10 1/2$, ankle 8, and bottom 15. These are a good deal used in some district: and are very useful in cold and weather. We now give a chapter on

One of the things that often puzzles the cutter in daily practice is how to produce in the scye, and as we recently had a student write to us in this difficulty we thought it would probably be of use to other of our fellow-craftsmen, as it enabled our ex-student to avoid a kill. He had been trying the old dodge of sinking and advancing the scye, but as soon as the customer lifted his arms it was almost unbearable. Of course, the scye had been made very much too deep, and when the arms were raised the whole garment rested on them. We sent him a diagram the same as this, told him to rip his sleeves out and collar off and bring the coat up to its proper position on the figure; then take his pattern and put either one or two wedges in the original pattern and have his coat finished in this altered form. We afterwards had the pleasure of hearing from him that the alteration was highly successful, and that now he was glad the alteration had occurred, as it had taught him a valuable lesson, so our readers may take a timely hint, and if they know their customers are particularly tender at this part they may make this provision in their coat at the start, and although it may not fit quite as clean just in the front of the scye, yet that will he overlooked by the customer in the fact that he has got a comfortable coat at last. Of course, we do not give this as a cure-all, but we are pretty sure this will prove effectual in nine cases out of ten, the principal causes of tightness in the scye being insufficient distance from the centre of back to the front of scye; insufficient depth, and a to crooked cut-shoulder, a too short front shoulder, or a too short collar, all of which have a very similar effect.

Such a difference of opinion exists on what really constitutes this or whether such a thing really exists, that we felt we ought to give just a few lines to its elucidation as far as lies in our power.

The popular idea of straightnees and crookednees is a deviation in the location of the neck point either forwards or backwards, the advanced neck point being called straight, and the receded one crooked: but inasmuch as there are so many variations which alter it in this way it is hardly a satisfactory definition; for instance, if the collar-stand or part of it were cut in one with the forepart, that would not make the garment straight, nor would the cutting away of the shoulder, an in a lady's evening bodice, make it crooked. so that it is necessary to advance a step further and to, define it more closely.

Straightness and crookednees of the shoulder is shown diagram 149. As will be seen, lines are drawn at the level of neck point 1, the level of shoulder point 9, and the level of bottom of scye 3. all parallel to each other. Taking the shaded pattern as the normal, the dot and dash line shown the straight shoulder, all the points being advanced on lines 1 and 2, say 1 inch, the lower part of the pattern remaining the same, whilst the reverse operation, viz.: shifting the points backwards, as in dotted lines, produces the crooked shoulder. But those are variations which lead to no practical