Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/64

 Rh The method of cutting them is the same as previously described for Overcoats, with the exception that the scye is made very much deeper, a little more or less is of no consequence, as they have no sleeves in them; there is nothing taken out between the back and forepart at the waist, as it is not desired to make them too close-fitting in the waist. The diagram illustrates the back as slightly hollowed, but this is often made whole, and in which case the back seam would be from the back tacking to the top O; as will be noticed, there is plenty of spring allowed at the bottom, a very necessary point, especially for little boys who are wearing kilts, &c., and in which case the amount (3 inches of overlap) we have illustrated may be increased with advantage. A button stand is left down the front, $1 1/2$ inches wide, and it is made to button through almost to the bottom. The cape portion of this garment is cut as follows (see diagram 142). Place the forerpart down as illustrated, and mark round the forepart at gorge, shoulder and down the scye for a few inches, say 8, and then mark upwards again, so that about $1/undefined$ an inch V will be taken out, let this part come about 1 inch above the shoulder, and then place the back with the shoulder point touching it, and the back seam running at right angles to the front, and mark round the back shoulder, neck, and backseam; then mark off the length you desire it in the back, and then measure down from the neck point of front shoulder this same quantity, plus $3/4$ of an inch. The side length may be obtained in a similar manner, but adding from $1 1/2$ to 2 inches; now, if you desire to have a very close-fitting Cape, you may reduce the width round the bottom by taking out a V from the bottom of from 3 to 4 inches (but using care the size is not reduced round the shoulders) as per dot and dash line. These garments are generally finished with a Prussian collar and patch pockets, whilst tabs are often put in to prevent the cape flying up in the wind; these are placed one in the centre of the back and one on each forepart. We now come to

This is another illustration of over-garments for little boys wear who have not yet got out of their petticoats. As will be seen it is very similar to the last with the exception that the scye is filled up and sleeves added. We have duly noted the characteristics of little boys, viz.; as large at the waist as at the chest, as well as being decidedly erect. This, it will be noticed, we have arranged for by taking $1/undefined$ of an inch from the depth of scye on the beck, and adding it to the front shoulder measures, whilst the over-shoulder remains the same. The sleeve is produced on the same lines as already described; we merely give the diagram here so that those who use graduated tape might have the diagram complete. These are often made to fasten up to the throat without a collar, as lace and other fancy style of collars are worn with them. All kinds of materials are used for this, and probably there are few which produce a prettier effect than plush; but of course, that is for very little children. We now come to

This is more especially suitable for a little boy in his first suit, and is certainly one of the prettiest garments we have seen for boys at this age. It is generally made from a blue beaver trimmed with astracan and ornamented with five rows of tubular braid, finished at the ends with crows' toes. The braid is allowed to go beyond the forepart in order that it might fasten to the barrel on the opposite side. It will be noticed it is cut rather short, and there is not nearly as much spring as in the last one, but with those exceptions it is cut on similar lines, although in this case the measures are only taken over the vest, and in the last it would be taken over the dress on which it would be worn. This bring us to nearly the last diagram illustrative of style. viz.:—

This style has been forced into popularity by the play bearing a similar name; it is certainly unique and artistic, although slightly effeminate, the leading feature, as will be gathered, is the sash, whilst the lace collar and cuffs are also very conspicuous. As will be noticed, the jacket is very short