Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/63

56 result; his designs were looked upon as the beat in the United States, so that our readers may safely take a hint from such an authority; for although, to use a tailor's phrase, it is only "striking brights," yet that is just where the originality comes from, and which we are apt to so often deplore as being lacking in our trade. It is not necessary we should describe the few examples of designing we give in minute detail. as our readers will be able to easily follow how these are produced, as the dotted marks show diagram 130 in each case. When pleats are added they are generally laid on, and when they are inserted as in

The forepart is cut down and a piece inserted large enough to form the pleats, the seam being carefully hidden under the folds of the material. This style of design might be produced with straps laid on and stitched through the front and terminating at the pocket-mouth.

This design, or one very similar to it, emanated from Mr. Ryan, and was considered a very pretty and stylish draw. It consists of the foreparts and back being out away and pleats put up front and buck to go under this deep yoke, as it were. It is very suitable for little boys' wear.

In this the same idea is developed, but in addition to the piece inserted in the front to form the pleats a sham vest is inserted, and showing 2 buttons below the coat; this may, of course, be a real vest if so desired; but they look very well just put to the front of jacket as illustrated.

This is a really pretty style of dress, and consists of it loose-fitting body part mode D.B., and put into a band at waist, below which small skirts are put on as with the Doublet, only smaller and consequently more in number.

This is a very dressy suit for little boys, and is, as will be seen, an adaptation of the Gents' Dress Lounge. It makes a very pretty suit for little boys' evening wear at parties, especially if a light vest is worn as on figure 59. The lapels of coats should be faced with silk.

This is an adaptation of the Sailor Dress. It is louse fitting and draw into a band at the waist, buttons to the throat, and has a pointed Sailor collar. It was very much worn a few years ago, but has given place to the more modern styles such as are illustrated on plates 18, 19, 20, and 21.

This is very suitable for plush or velvet with silk facings or vest of a contrasting colour. The scope for variety this opens up is very wide, and consequently there should be no lack of variety in the juvenile department, and if a really smart man possessed of an artistic taste and in addition a fair amount of originality were to take this matter up we are convinced he would succeed. The jacket is cut much longer than the rest of the diagrams on this page, it representing the Historic or 17th Century Dress.

We will now proceed to deal with two or three styles of little boys Overcoat, and foremost amongst these we find

This is really an Inverness, but with the cape extending all round, and which have been very popular during the past season. They undoubtedly possess advantages over the old style, as whilst they lit the body much closer, they are yet very much freer in wear, there being an absence of that contraction so often experienced in the old style.