Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/62

Rh Cutter Office, and show respectively the designs for braiding the cults of lieutenants, captain, and major of the rifles. The more elaborate of them we hardly likely to be used for juveniles. Still, with n knowledge of the correct. thing, they may be utilised or modified to taste.

This is a very simple style of braiding and is the some as on the statue of the late General Gordon in Trafalgar-square. It merely consists of braid laid on flat and the ends pointed and dropped over. This should properly be done with two rows of braid. It will, however, simplify matters if one wide one is used. As will be seen, this, too, Is fastened down the front with hook; and eyes, and olivets put down the fronts, which makes a neat finish. A facing should be put all down the front to prevent the underclothing allowing through between the hooks and eyes.

Thin is an adaptation of the Artillery Shell Jacket trimming when the cord in yellow on the blue cloth. It is very effective and one which can be easily produced by any intelligent tailor. The edge is corded, as is also the pocket. The chief feature to notice is the finish at top and bottom. The front is finished with ball buttons, which are passed through the cord. This, however, is only done for ornament, it being fastened down with hooks and eyes as with the others The cuff illustrated on diagram 104 is the Regulation pattern for a Major of the Infantry, and is suitable for those on diagram 100, or an adaptation may be used. There is another military design in digram 13. which shows the Infantry Patrol Jacket, and which is equally suitable for juveniles and youths, if not more so. These designs of braiding will give the principal ideas to be embodied in trimming juvenile clothing and the further adaptation of it shown on Plate 19 illustrates the application of braid. i.e. to fancy materials, such as plush, &c. Plate 18, however, is the one which deals more particularly with braiding, and will he found quite sufficient illustration of this phase of artistic tailoring, especially if the points we have directed attention to are thoroughly understood.

On this plate is shown the application of silk, plush, velvet, and braid. and by which some very good effects are produced.

This presents a modification of the old style of dress worn in the 17th Century, when the gentlemen wore long coats. and their vests reached almost to the thighs. The diagram is considerably modified, hence if that style of dress were required it would be necessary to make it longer. As represented here, the body of the coat and sleeves, as well as the breeches (diagram 113), are made of plush, and a false vest inserted down the front of silk. This latter may, of course, be made separately if no desired, and in which case diagram 114 may be followed; still, there are many suits made which have false vests inserted, which are all treated in this may, viz., allowed to just go under the fore part, say at leant a couple of inches, and then fastened to the lining; the pointed lace collar and cuffs invariably form a part of this costume. As regards the cutting this suit, it is produced in just the same way as already described, the fronts of the jacket being cut away from the neck, to allow of the vest being seen, which buttons down the front. If it is made to come very low, it will be advisable to leave the bottom button about three or four inches below the waist, so that the bottom of the vest may not contract the section of the legs. Diagram 108 illustrates the cuff for this style of costume, and which is merely a plain cuff with A lace cuff put on afterwards.

Is a question which often puzzles the tailor, as it seems so contrary to his ordinary practice to cut it with the pile running up, and he fancies he has