Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/60

Rh and to $17 1/2$ the full side length, from 12 to $17/2$ is the leg length, now draw a line at right angles to 9 $17 1/2$, from 12 to $12 1/2$, from 12 to 6 is $1/undefined$ seat to 9, $1/undefined$ and on to $12 1/4$ $2/2$ and $1/undefined$ of an inch. Now drew a line up at right angles to 9, and another down from 6. Find the level of the natural waist by going up a fourth of the seat, and 1 inch. and than measure on this line $1/undefined$ waist and $1/undefined$ inch, and then drew the hollow of the fork, carefully avoiding making it too hollow. A very good rule is to make it about $1/undefined$ of $12 1/4$ inch more than half the distance between 9 and $12 1/4$. Now divide the width of the legs at knee and bottom equally on either side of line drawn at right angles to point 7, and if it is desired to have the buttons to run forwards at the knee, the width of the topsides at the side again may be reduced, end the extra width put on the undersides. The undersides are produced by the topsides; come up from 9 to 3,$1/undefined$,and draw a line from 3 to 12, and by which draw the seat seam at right angles; make a pivot of the knee, and sweep from O to 19, and them proceed to measure off the size of the seat and measuring from 9 to O, but on the natural waist line, and placing whatever quantity that is at 9 X, and measure towards 19 the waist plus the one inch consumed in the seams. Now measure the seat in the some way as the waist, but allowing from $1 1/2$ to 2 inches for ease and seams. The mole of measuring the seat is on follows: Apply the tape to the forepart from S to E, then take the tape back to A on the underside: and make up the seat measure, and $1 1/2$ or 2 inches as just described. If these breeches are made to fit the knee very tight it will be as well to allow about $1/undefined$ or $3/4$ inch to be fulled on over the knee of the topsides, but this is scarcely necessary unless they are mode to fit the knee very close.

These are produced in precisely the some way as just described, the variation in the width of the log: being arranged equally on either side of the centre line. The dress should be taken out for all styles, although we know some people do not do this for little boys, still, if they wish them to fit smart and clean at the fork a small quantity must be taken out

In order to illustrate the style of vest generally made to wear with suit of this class we added this diagram; it may either be reproduced by the graduated tape: to agree with the breast measure, or by the divisions of the breast measure you on page 28. The only feature worthy of note is that it is made of the no-collar type and generally fastening close up to the throat. We also illustrate on this plate the principal style of collars worn by juveniles. For very little boys the lace pointed collar and cuffs are particularly appropriate and becoming, and for older boys there can be nothing better then either the plain or fancy style of Eton. We now come to deal with plate 20, which deals exclusively with

Of all the styles adopted for juvenile wear there ere probably none in such universal favour as the sailor suit, and which in worn by boys and youths of all ages with only some little variation in the details, thus, when the little one is first put into suits he generally has the sailor blouse and a kilt, then he comes to wear knickers, and than very soon the regular jack-tar trousers, and as this style is so universal, we have little doubt this plate will prove one of unusual interest, and in anticipation of this we shell treat of ot as fully as possible. We begin with

This is produced on the same lines as previously described for the shirt. but as this diagram is arranged somewhat differently, it will be as well if we describe it again. Square lines O 18, O 20. From 0 to $2 1/2$ is $1/undefined$ neck, from O to $3/4$ is always $3/4$ of an inch, from 0 to $2 1/2$ is $1/undefined$ of an inch more than on eighth; from O to 9 is half the breast, and continue on to 17, the full length the garment is desired, plus whatever amount it is desired to "bag over" at the waist. whilst an inch of round is put on to compensate for hollowing tendency of the