Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/59

52 heard that is the correct way. There is a difference of opinion on this point, end although it is generally considered correct with the pile running up, yet that plan is by no means universally adopted; for although it is generally conceded that when cut with me pile running up it presents a very much richer appearance, yet those who cut it with the pile running down content that it wears very much cleaner, and does not catch the dust nearly as readily, and in brushing the dirt can be more easily removed, so that our readers will see there is no universal custom, but in the absence of any instructions this mutter, he would certainly be safer in cutting all velvets, plushes, furs, &c., with the pile running up.

As will be gathered from these diagrams, the only variations in the cut are as follows: It is cut a trifle shorter and the forepart only cut to come to the breast line, the fastening of the front being effected by a kind of double lapel which allows of it being fastened over on either side. It certainly forms a very Stylish garment, and is something out of the ordinary run, yet simple, and such that any tailor might make with ease. The style of trimming illustrated on the lapel, diagram 111, is both simple and effective, being formed by a crow's toe at either end, the button-hole being in the centre of this; care should be taken to carefully conceal the ends of the braid, as if these are not out of sight, they detract very much from the finish of the garment; this style of suit blends itself very readily to what many firms call

Owing to the ease to which it can be converted into various styles, for instance, the lapel might be braided one side end left plain or differently braided the other; then by leaving the lapel: off, and fastening the fronts with hooks end eyes would make another style, whilst the fourth may be arranged by fastening the lapel inside and making it form a sham vest, as it were, the fronts left loose and open. At my rate there is plenty of scope for the display of ingenuity in dealing with juvenile clothing, still we do not think the fancy styles ever have a very large sale, people generally preferring to dress their children in plain useful garments; still, there are always a few who go in for novelties such as these, and those who make a lending line of this branch of the profession should always have a few of this class to add character to their stock; if they make a display at all in their window, it gives a variety which is often very telling in obtaining customers.

This is another very effective style of making up velvet, being first braided with mohair braid on the edge, and trimmed up the the fronts with a fancy braid. The fronts are arranged to fasten with hooks and eyes, some fancy buttons being put on the front edge to take off the plainness of this style of fastening. Diagram 109 illustrates the style of cuff to correspond. In giving this illustration of trimming, we do not wish our readers to look on this in any other way than as a specimen of the style in which velvet and plush suits are male up by those houses who cuter largely for the wants of juveniles, as, of course, the styles of trimming are innumerable, and it would be useless for us _to attempt to describe them all, it being rather our aim to select a few of those which may be looked upon as representative styles, and of which plate 19 is composed. It also contains

Of late there has been a very decided tendency to have the nether garments for boys to fit rather close at the knee ; there can be no doubt they look very smart and stylish, and are particularly appropriate to wear with old styles of dress such as illustrated on figure 48 and diagram 107; they are usually finished with three buttons at the knee and sometimes a narrow band and buckle. The manner in which they are cut in very similar to that already described for trousers, still, it may be just as well if we go over the various points again, so that there may not be my difficulty in cutting these little garments. O to 14 is the side length to the knees