Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/58

Rh Costume. so that it will be quite unnecessary to make more than a few passing comments.

This Frock forms, as it were, the connecting link between the little boy-baby and the little man just breached, and. Although more generally worn in connection with the Sailor Blouse, it allows of some of his undergarments being retained; yet it is quite suitable to wear with many other styles of locket such ea me to be found in this volume; then, again, it is suitable for girls' wear, as in figure 52. There can scarcely be said to be any cutting required. although there should be a certain amount of spring over the seat to allow of sufficient freedom for the logs, so that before the kilns are definitely fixed, it should be seen that they agree with the diagram. O to 18 is the half waist, and from which square down 9 and go out $1/2$ inches on either side, and hollow the top at the waist $3/4$ of an inch. These are sometimes made up ou a foundation, in which case it would be cut in this way: the manner of arranging the kilt is shown on diagram 89. whilst diagram 90 shows the method of arranging the box pleat. It should always be the aim of the cutter to preserve harmony throughout the Costume, so that if the Jacket is trimmed will be advisable to trim the skirt in the same manner.

These are token from our work on Naval Uniforms which recently appeared in the monthly parts of the. Diagrams are marked out to the 36 size, so that all our readers will have to do will be to selected graduated tape to agree with the breast measure they wish to reproduce, and mark of the same quantities as are here marked with it, or they may be reproduced as follows: Make the width $3/4$ breast A, midway the armhole at 10 1 inch more than $1/undefined$breast, and the sides hollowed 1 inch, A to 3 $1/undefined$ neck. The sleeve heed, as at 13, is cut 2 to 3 inches larger than the armhole, which is pleated in at top, as also is the bottom to the cuff.

As this is a duly recognised part of Naval Uniforms, it will be as well if we give the Admiralty Regulations respecting them, which run as follows:

"Trousers of navy blue cloth or white duck, fitting tight at the waistband, to be tied at the back with black silk ribbon or white tape, with a pocket and broad flaps, and stained hone or white metal deed- eye buttons.

"White Frock to be made of drill, with collar and wristbands of blue jean, the collar having a border of three rows of three-sixteenths of an inch, white tape one-eighth of an inch apart, and the wristbands to be peaked with two rows of white tape along the upper margin, and one along the lower, with one metal dead-eye button at the wrist. The blue Frock is just the same, except the collars and cuffs, which are of the same material."

"Collars.—All seaman's collars are to be of the dimensions given on diagram 119."

Probably there is no brunch of the trade that requires as much skill as designing in order to produce successful results. and it in one that is probably less cultivated than any other. We are content to jog along in the some style your after year, when probably all around us are striving their utmost to introduce improvements or changes which will increase their trade; and as it in clearly our interest to produce changes in the fashion as speedily as possible, it must he apparent to all that the designer's art plays a very important part in the moulding of our fortunes. During Mr. D. E. Ryan's visit to England he laid very great stress on this point, and the method of designing we now explain is the same as he advocated and practised and as he is probably one of, if not the most successful designers we know of, we may justly look upon his method as a good one. His plan, then, was to have a piece of cloth and mark the pattern of a boy`a jacket, such as is illustrated on diagram 130, and have the same stitched in coloured silk on the cloth, so that whenever he wished to design a new style would take this piece of cloth which he called "the designer," and set to work to either alter the position of the seams, inserts a pleat or a series of pleats, put a yoke on the shoulder, and so on, till an altogether new style of dress was the