Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/57

54 drawing in at the waist; now square across from all these points, and make$2 1/2$ to O, $1/undefined$ breast, and continue on to $11 1/4$ whatever amount of ease you may desire to give your blouse; in this instance we have made this $2 1/4$ inches, or equal to $1/undefined$ of the breast. $13 1/2$ is the same distance from $11 3/4$ as $11 1/4$ is from 9, and from 1$13 1/2$ to $22 1/2$ is a fourth of the breast, point 20 is $1/undefined$ of the neck back from this, and draw the shoulder side from 20 to $13 1/2$ of the front, and $2 1/2$ to O of the back, and than draught the scye by hollowing the front 1 inch in front of line $13 1/2$ The front may be advanced slightly at the waist; and a button stand added all down the front if it is desired to fasten it in that way, the same amount of round is added on the front at the button as at the back; as described this will produce a moderately loose-fitting blouse, but if it in desired to fit looser, the extra width which would be placed mostly at the waist would be equally distributed at the back under the arm and on the front, putting twice as much under the arm as at ether buck or front; for instance, if it were desired to add 2 inches at the waist it would be distributed in this manner: 1 inch would be put in at the side, $1/undefined$ an inch added to both the back and front; these garments are generally made up with a whole back, and put into a band at the waist or a hem put all round the bottom and a piece of elastic run through it. A patch pocket is generally added, trimmed in the same style as the collar.

This readily explains itself as it shows how these are produced. As will be seen it is the same as is used by the majority of the trade to produce the Three-quarters Circle Cpae, and merely ennsiml in putting the buck and forepart together at the shoulder and making she centre of the collar to run with the back seam; whilst the size is entirely a mutter of taste, Although the diagram illustrates a vary suitable one, and which is made nearly as wide as the back and to come nearly to a level with the bottom of the soya. It is shown on this diagram as rolling rather low, but if desired it can be made to fasten close up to the throat, but in that case it loses much of its grace. It is generally trimmed with three rows of narrow white tape or braid, the rows being kept $1/undefined$ of an inch apart. An anchor is generally, or at least often, put in the corner as shown, but this is not in accordance with those worn by the genuine sailor. A silk handkerchief is put round the neck and fastened just below the collar with a sailor's knot, whilst the buttons generally used are gilt anchor.

From which these are mostly made is ordinary blue Serge and trimmed with while tape, which in the same as used by sailors generally. Some very pretty effects are often produced by arranging contrasting shades of cloth or velvet in this style, whilst a very large number are made for summer wear from white drill with blue Joan collars and vuffs; the various patterns of Galatea are also used for this type of garment. We Now come to

This in very simple. Draw line 0 25, and make from O to $2 1/2$ the same as 9 to $11 1/4$ of the forepart, whilst, if it is desirable to put the sleeve in quite plain, $2 1/4$ to 10 may be mode the some as half the scye. and if pleats are desired, as is often the case, the extra width must of courses be allowod for them between $2 1/4$ and 10. The length of the sleeve is made to measure, and the width of the cuff fixed to taste, pleats being arranged here also; the bottom of the sleeve is generally finished with a cuff, as is illustrated on diagram 123. As will be readily gathered, the sleeve is cut on the crease, the seam coming under the arm and going into the scye at $11 1/4$ on the level of scye line; this diagram also shows the position of the good conduct stripes and the marks of distinction. These are worked in gold for the full dress; in red worsted on the blue serge, and in blue worsted on the white drill ones. This style of jacket may either be worn with the knickers as illustrated by diagram 115, but of course cut from material to match the blouse, or with

We have already gone into the question of Kilt Frocks somewhat fully in dealing with the