Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/55

48 The web of tartan is from 24 to 26 inches in width; and all clan tartans ought to have the colours so proportioned that they can be made up in the form of the kilt or the belted plaid; that is, the stripes should be so arranged. that in "box-plait- ing" the distinguishing bars shell appear without any overlaying, which prevents the free play of the Feilebeaag, and destroys the pleasing effect of loose drapery. The ingenious fabrications of tartan which have for some time been so fashionable, are great improvements in this manufacture; and the brilliance of colour and taste of arrangement are often extremely beautiful; but except where they are copies of clan tartans, they are arranged with- out any regard to their adaptation for the Highland dress. As they are, however, generally intended for fancy scarves and shawls, there would be less harm in this, were it not that patterns are often marked and disposed of as clan plaids to those who cannot tell whether they are so or not. Indeed the popularity of this notional manufacture has induced parties to bring forward patterns as appertaining to clans and families, which are the entire emanations of their own inventive propensi- ties; and although many are imposed upon by the plausibility with which the deception is supported, those who are at all versed in the subject can easily detect the true from the spurious.

By the plan here given, which is formed on that which appeared some 25 years ago in Mr. Logan's elaborate work on the Highlanders, any one will be enabled to provide himself with his appropriate Breacan. In many cases the scale here given will not, however, coincide with the pattern, as it muy be of is larger or smaller sett; but, if correctly designed, the colours will proportionately corres- pond. Let the scale be drawn and the colors marked as for as given, which comprehends the whole pattern, and by applying it to as piece of cloth, the commencement being from the selvedge, it will be proved correct or otherwise.

The various details illustrated in Plate 17 will be a very great help to tailors not acquainted with such. Diagrams 89 and 90 we shall refer to later on in dealing with Kilt Frocks in Sailor Dresses. etc., as they apply more particularly to them, although they are often used for a species of Scotch dress known under the name of the Highland Undress Suit, an ordinary round jacket and vest being worn with a kilt without any of the et ceteras which invariably go with the Highland suit proper, so that if our readers desire to make such they will easily be able to gain the necessary information from one part or another of this work.

This being the only style of national costume which is at all popular with juvenile wear, we will leave out others of the some class and proceed to deal with

It is somewhat difficult to subdivide these, as the Artistic runs parallel to the Sectional and Historical on many occasions, so that we have