Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/52

Rh above the natural waist to the knee bone for length, and the size round the waist and seat, the latter measure being more important with men than boys, there being comparatively little difference between the seat and waist of a boy.

These Kilts are frequently worn by adults. and as instructions for making will not in all probability be found in any work, we give the following, the principal points of which appeared in No. 348 of the

For a full-grown person a Kilt requires about six times the waist measure, or from $7 1/2$ to 9 yards; the quantity, however, further varies according to the thickness of material, the degree of fulness desired, and the pattern, and the distance the stripes composing it are apart. Still, speaking of an adult, the depth of a Kilt is the width of the material, and is worn higher or lower on the body, according to the height of the wearer, and the distance he wishes it to cover the lower limbs. Properly, when standing, it should be level with the lower part of the knee, so that in the act of walking it does not touch the hinder part of the leg. For boys and youths the depth must be varied according to height

Although to the uninitiated the making of a Kilt appears complicated, it is in reality very simple. Supposing it to be made of Tartan, the clan stripe must appear in the centre of each plait, which is easily distinguished by its prominence; this necessity is the reason of the peculiarity in plaiting ups Kilt. Diagram 88 shows the section of the plaits -that is, that the lines represent the edge of the material.

The *'s show the front of the plaits, the O's the back of them. In ordinary plaiting both back and front would appear the same, each plain running to a sharp point, as those represented by the O's, but then as a particular stripe, within given and limited intervals, must be shown on the front, that portion of the plait containing it is turned back upon itself; at least that is the result arrived at, although not exactly the method followed, which we will describe.

When on, a Kilt appears to consist of two portions, the plaited, which is behind and over the hips, and the plain, which is in front. This plain part is called the apron, and is really double, each end of the Kilt having a quantity left plain, from ten to twelve inches, and in wear they are doubled over and under-the right under the left over. The number of plaits in a Kilt will vary with the size, but may be usually taken at about thirty, and in width must be regulated by size of waist; having fixed upon the width and number of plaits, keeping in view the quantity of material and the distance the stripes to be thrown up are apart, proceed to baste down each edge of the plains from top to bottom, about five inches from the top, making them a little narrower, to hollow of waist. Having done this, carefully bring all the edges so busted together, one at a time, and baste firmly down from top to bottom, keeping the under material in the form of box plaits, that is, let it lie both ways, except the two front ones, which must all lie one way, back- wards: having proceeded thus fur, draw the edges together for about ten inches down, after which, firmly prick across the bottom of the sewed part of the plaits, through all. Turning now to the inside, the edges of the plaits may be felled or stitched down as for as the pricking across; or, what is far better (although not strictly regular), as it makes the Kilt thinner and set better over the hips, is to cutout all the material to the outside plaits, fill in the space with a piece of firm tweed, and line over it. In doing this shaped to hollow of waist, for which purpose we have directed above that each sewed part of the plaits should be narrowed in the centre. By Saxons, Kilts are sometimes worn with braces, but the Celt draws his philabeg firmly round his waist with pins five or six inches long, with silver or gold heads.

Bind the top; prose the Kilt before removing the busting. This is not a very particular operation, but must be thoroughly and firmly done, so that every plait keeps its place, this and the forming of the waist being the two parts upon which its bounty depends. The next operation is to put on the straps and buckles, if worn, the straps of leather being put on the ends of the apron, opposite the hollow of waist, and the buckles in a corresponding line on the third plait; the under strap must of