Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/51

44 the Skean Dhu, Brooches for cap and shoulder belt, the hose which should be of the same pattern as the plaid or Kilt, but with the cheek running on the bias. The cap with one, two, or three feathers, according to the social position of the wearer, and fancy brogues with buckles, completes the costume. Illustrations of all these details will be found on Plate 17, and should our readers have any difficulty in procuring them, we shall be pleased to do so for them. The Claymore is worn on the left side, the dirk on the right, and the Skean Dhu in the stocking, whilst the position of the Cap and shoulder Brooches, as well as the Sporran will be thoroughly understood without any explanation of ours. Turning our attention to the diagrams for reproducing same, we find they are produced by the same system as previously explained, the various quantities marked on them being the usual Shape to the seams of this garment. The bank is cut on the crease, and a button stand is left all down the front. This, however, is not always done, many being made to just fasten at the neck, and have two rows of buttons, i.e, one down each forepart. It is made to come just below the natural waist, and is continued below that with the lashes or skirts, which really form one of its principal features.

Is not brought to the end of forepart being left open to show the vest between; its shape is faithfully portrayed in the diagram, and if the quantities there marked are used as units of the graduated tape, they will be reproduced of a suitable size. The underskirt is cut round, and has the edge finished in the same way as the edge of the Doublet, which our diagram illustrates as being round. The top tash, as will be seen, is pointed, and has three buttons and cords. These buttons are generally plate, diamond shape, and not unusually of silk or mohair, according to the material used. The diamond shaped button, however, gives it a more decided Scotch bone, they having a thistle on them. The side tash is somewhat different in shape, the details of which may be readily gathered from the diagram. The back tash is decidedly different, and as shown on our diagram, shows the skirts for the whole back, that in, right and left; they are cut separately, and allowed to slightly overlap and left plain, no buttons or cords being put on them. 13 or 14 buttons are put up the front, and a shoulder strap either of cord or braid, or from the same material as the Doublet, is placed on the shoulder, as in diagram 80. The sleeve ls produced on precisely the same linen as previously described, the special feature of this being the gauntlet cuff, the size of which is clearly marked on diagram 81; it is left loose on the top edge, and lined with silk or the same as used for the body. The edges are finished the same as the edges of Doublet, and three buttons and cords complete it as shown.

The special points about this are fastening to neck and cut long in front, with the corners cut sharply away, as illustrated. Flaps to the pockets of the shape shown, which are finished all round the same as the edges, the pockets being more usually put in above than under them. 3 buttons and cords are put on the some way as on the tashes. The back is cut much shorter than forepart, and a slit left at the side as shown, the reason for this is to prevent the possibility of the back showing if the book or side tashes were accidently lifted. We now come to the most distinctive feature of this dress, viz.,

Which, an will be seen, consists of three parts viz., the left, or top apron, which is usually finished with rosettes, &c., as illustrated, and is made at top rather more than $1/undefined$ waist, and $1/2$ inches wider at bottom. The centre or kilted part, when finished, is equal to remaining two-thirds of the Waist; the right, or under apron, is the same size as the left, and is of course left plain. The great thing to be avoided in these in their opening in front from want of size for the movements of the body. The measures usually taken for a kilt are $1 1/2$ or 2 inches