Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/50

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We now come to deal with those garments which apply more particularly to those younger portions of the race which may strictly called juveniles as compared with those a few years older, and whom we have designated youths, and to whom our former pages have boon particularly devoted. Almost as much scope is allowed for the designer's skill in juveniles as in ladies' clothing, inasmuch as neither colour nor material is restricted, so that with such scope the tailor must be vary much to blame if he lacks the skill to produce a garment at once becoming, stylish, and attractive. Historical, national, and artistic styles are all considerably patronised, and it occurs to us that this is one reason this branch of our trades has drifted into the hands of a few specialists, who make it their busi- uess to design or reproduce according to the style desired. It may be as well if we describe what we mean by historical, &c. Historical costumes refer to those worn in olden times, and which have become popular from an historical point of view. By national, we refer to the special costumes as worn by certain nations, such as the Scotch Highland Costume. By sectional, we refer to those garments worn by a certain part of the community by virtue of their trade or calling, and amongst which may be quoted the Sailor and Military styles. By artistic we refer to such garments as are trimmed either by pleats (as in the Norfolk) or in braided designs, as illustrated on Plate 18. It will be noticed that in the following diagrams the back length has been reduced $1/undefined$ inch, and the front shoulder increased a like amount, thus altering the balance to the extent of $1/undefined$ an inch, that being in accordance with the dictates of our experience; most juveniles resembling to a very large extent the corpulent figure, and being of the gar-ment. It is hardly necessary for us to repeat the arguments we previously used in favour of cultivat- ing a juvenile trade, as they were dealt with in the early part of the present work, so that we will at. once proceed to deal with the various costumes individually, and begin by one of the moat popular, National Costumes.

A good deal of variation is permissible in some of the details as well as the material from which this is made, and as military garments form a kind of standard pattern which are worked out in these various points by authorised military regulations, we feel we could not do better than quote the Army Regulations for the Doublet of Highland Regiments.

".—Scarlet cloth, with collar and cuffs of the regimental facings. The collar laced and braided according to rank, gauntlet cuffs, 4 inches deep in front and 6 inches at the back, edged with $1/undefined$ inch laces round the top and down the back seam: 3 loops of gold braid with buttons on each cuff; 8 buttons in front and 2 at the waist behind. Inverness Skirts. $6 1/2$ inches deep, with skirt flaps 6 inches deep; 3 loops of gold braid with buttons on each skirt flap. The front, collar, skirts and flaps, edged with white cloth, $1/undefined$ inch wide, and the skirts and flap; lined with white, Shoulder straps of twisted round gold cord, universal pattern, lined with scarlet; in small button of regimental pattern at the top. Badges of rank in silver."

The style in which the Highland Dress; is made for little boys is as follows: it consists of the Doublet with tashes (i.e., small skirts), vest with flaps, kilt of Tartan of clan pattern, the Sporran or Pouch, the Plaid, the Claymore or Sword, the Dirk,