Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/48

Rh '''Continuations. Dia. 76.'''

These are generally made from a thinner cloth, the seam is placed down the back; the method of draughting is very simple. Draw line O, 10; O to $7 1/2$ is half size of top, plus a seam; and 10, $5 3/4$ half the size of bottom. plus a seam. From O to $2 1/4$ is $1/undefined$ inch less than 6, $2 3/4$ of the breeches, that being the actual centre of front, as most peoples feet turn out to that extent. From 10 to $2 1/4$ is the some amount which finds the one side, the other part being produced precisely the same as the back part: and the front, is button stand, say 1 inch less than $2 1/2$ is from 10 and 0. Those are generally made up very thin, tho buttons which should be very flat, put rather wide apart.

These are so generally used with breeches that we should be very remiss if we did not give A system for producing them. As at present worn they are very round at bottom, rather large, and the buttons arranged so as to come nearly over the centre of foot, 7 holes pieced at equal distances, and, as will be seen, some distance from the bottom. A gentleman in ordering a pair of these from me. laid. "I want these to have the same effect as a Newmarket boot, i.e. a top boot with Devon tops." This so nearly expresses the ideal of leg- ginggs as worn at present, that no better illustra- tion could be found to convoy the correct idea to our readers The system is as follows: Draw line O 14, hollow it $3/8$ at ankle, and if the gentleman has fairly proportioned calves take out $3/4$ at top, and measure forward to $7 1/2$ the half size of top, plus seams, and the same at bottom, and draw a line down front; and, if any variation has to be made in the size of calf, make it at the back. Draw the top of legging at right angles to line $7 1/2$,$7 1/2$, and allow on the buttonholes in accordance with the position they are desired to take, remembering the front line of legging should come about half on inch to the side of the division of width line of breeches, for the reason previously given. If this is made more than sufficient for a button stand. reduce the smaller side as much as is beyond the front line, but leaving sufficient for a button stand. Well round the bottoms away as shown in 1 and 2 from $7 1/2$. and this will produce a legging as made in one of the most celebrated houses for this speciality in London. They are generally faced with the same material round the bottom and up the buttonhole side, the button stand being stayed with linen, jean, or canvas. A loop is left at top to fasten them to the breeches and keep the legging; in place. as well as a loop being left behind (if the material is too thick or otherwise unsuitable for a buttonhole) to fasten to the calf button.

The white buckskin ties usally put on breeches at knee are intended to further help in keeping the leggings in place as well as relieving the strain, or allow it to be adjusted tighter or looser as desired, and should show just above the top of the leggings, or top boots if the latter are worn.

Each season brings these garments into increased popularity, so that now no hosier's stock is con- siderd complete without them. They are a good deal worn by the better class of youth at public schools. and consequently we give them a place in this work. It in not necessary for us to consider wherein the advantage lie over the old style of night-shirt. Suffice it for us there is a demend for them, and if we wish to keep pace with the times we must be ready with the supply, or at any rate be competent to execute orders for such. They are made from Oxford shifting, flannel, silk, and such-like materials, and are generally coloured, stripes and checks being more popular than self- shades. As will readily be seen by this diagram trousers are cut in precisely the same manner as just described, with the exception that they are cut with a straight sideseam, so that if desired, the seam maybe omitted, which, we may say, is the plan more generally adopted; a straight sideseam is, therefore indispensable so that after fixing the size at bottom and the size at seat draw a straight line through these two point, the excess of width