Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/47

40 undersides; for two reasons; the first to show how this was arranged, the second to coll attention to the fact that Eton trousers should always be cut so, as it is always advisable to avoid having anything which would give the impression of piecing. This is arranged by hollowing the waist at back another $3/4$ inch inside seat seem, making up the size of waist at side and allowing 1 inch for seams only. Besides the garments usually worn by boys for ordinary wear, than are those which are worn for racing and athletic performances; these are generally cut shorter in the legs, and the waist large enough to pull up over the hip and fasten with a drawing string round the waist, and consequently the button front is unnecessary. To cut these the sideseam may be drawn straight up from the bottom and hips. as a little surplus width at the waist in no detriment. We now come to

The special feature to be studied in these garments is to allow sufficient angle and room in the seat to allow of the free action of the legs. The method we have adopted with the most satisfactory result: is as follows: After fixing all the points by the some method as for trousers, recede the fronts $1/undefined$ inch, and out the top sides from 1 to $1 1/4$ inches longer in the leg to allow for plenty of fulness being put over the knee, and in dealing with the under-sides, increase the neat angle 1 inch, and allow 1 inch of length from the fork line up- wards, to allow of their being held on that much over the seat. They should be cut long enough to prevent their working up over the knee; and the bottom should be finished with a garter and buckle, which should be kept tight across the topside and held on slightly at back. Three or four buttons should be placed at the side, the top one being placed at the small, an the tack just below knee. As will be noticed, the buttons are kept well at the side, a feature we have found to be in accordance with the wishes of the majority of cyclists. Two inches will be ample to allow over the seat measure, unless they are required very easy, when another half-inch is added; the shaded parts on the seat show the size seat piece generally put on outside, whilst the inside is lined with either flannel or chamois leather. The pockets for this style are generally put in cross, and we have occasionally omitted them in front and put in short seat pockets. These are details, however, which are heat obtained from each individual customer, our experience going to prove this class of customers are rare fidgets, but know what they want.

Many young gentlemen require garments of this class, especially those who may be regarded as the upper ten. As at present worn they are very baggy at the thighs and close-fitting at the knee, whilst the buttons are brought decidedly forward. The working of the system for these is as follows; find all the points as for trousers, and then instead of squaring up at right angles on line 12 from 9, drop the square down to $13 1/2$ and get the fly line at right angles to $13 1/2$,9; get the run of top by squaring from the original fly line, and in dividing the width of legs at knee make the topside $1/undefined$ to 1 inch narrower at sideseam, this is done with the view of bringing the buttons forward. Allow 1 inch of extra length for fulling on beyond the actual measure and use care not to get the knees too large. As a general rule the knee can be fixed at 2 inches above the half leg, the small being two inches below the knee, and the calf about 3 inches below the small. Of course this is only the average, but as such it may be of use. In dealing with the underside, the seat angle is drawn by using point $13 1/2$ in place of 12, see dot and dash line, and is the same in effect as if a 2 inch wedge were taken out from side at 12 to nothing at fork, $12 1/4$. The seat is made up to measure and $3 1/2$ inches for the present baggy style, and any deficiency at the sides of top at knee made up at undersides as shown. 1 inch should be allowed for fulling on over the seat; the top of undersides finished as for trousers, a little extra length at heel: being no detriment for these The back is placed 1 inch below the knee, and the first button put at the small. The strappings at inside of leg are not always put on, although done so very frequently, and are either of leather or the same material as the breeches, and generally stitched in the manner illustrated to keep them in position. To these are frequently added