Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/46

Rh inch over, and take out the dress as previously described, of one-twelfth of the half seat. There is another point which has formed the subject of correspondence, and tint is the apparent waste of material down the sideseam, and if the side at bottom could not be brought close to 45. Of course, it can, but in doing so yon are slightly twisting the pattern on the legs, and the query is, whether the $1 1/2$ inches that comes off the side is of more value than the pattern running with the leg. We do not think it is, hence our reason for fixing a method which will produce the highest result, still, we know there are occasions when every inch of cloth is of value. Then point 6 may he made $1/undefined$ the size of bottom desired, plus seams, and 12, $6 1/3$seat, all the other lines being squared from it. The method in fully illustrated in the new work on Livery Garments. However, it is a plan which detracts from the style and effect of a good fitting garment, and should only be resorted to under exceptional circumstances. The only other point we will notice in the trouser system is the position of the buttons; we are of opinion the front button should stand nearly $1/undefined$ waist. i.e., $1/undefined$ total waist from the fly seam, and the next one $3 1/2$ or $3 3/4$ from it, whilst the back one should not be more than 2 inches from closing seam at back. There are many other phases of this most important subject which we should be only too pleased to discuss, but having dealt with them in the work previously mentioned, we should he only swelling the bulk of the present volume and thereby adding to its cost unnecessarily, if we repented them, so must refer our renders to that hook for a further elucidation of the principles we have set down. We will only further onto the peculiarities of those styles which are worn by boys and youths, and we suppose there is no style of nether garment which has grown more rapidly in popularity, than

There is no variation in the body parts of these, unless they are made very loose fitting at the thighs when the rest follows suit. The special features in these are to allow sufficient length to form the bag over arrangement at knee. 3 inches is a minimum of surplus length beyond the actual measure to the point at which it is desired they shall terminate on the leg; 4 inches is preferable for this. They should be be made loose, and in the absence of any better guide, 2 inches over the half seat may be taken as the present fashion width, some have them wider than this, but this is a medium style which may be safely followed. Knickers are some- times finished merely with a piece of elastic put in the hen at bottom, and at others are put into a band, in which case the larger amount of fulness should be placed in front. Some firms reduce the size of knees, by fishes, which is specially suitable when the material in very thick, but in thin substance the effect is much better when it is fulled into a garter or elastic. Kinckerbocker Breeches are produced exactly the same, but have a hand sewn in at the bottom $3 1/2$ or 4 inches wide, and finished with three holes and buttons, the top button coming in the small just below the knee, in order to make them fit clean and give the desired ease for the calf of leg. Diagram 70 is very suitable, it is produced by taking a strip of paper, cutting it at $1/undefined$ up to 10, and letting it overlap about $3/8$, and thus producing the hollow and tightness at bottom, and the round at top. The reverse operation at 10, viz., cut from 10 to $1/undefined$, and open half an inch, which produces the opposite result, viz.. round edge at bottom and hollow at top. This band is frequently mule of drab Devon and mode up very firm, being frequently lined with canvas, the object being to combine the support of breeches with the comfort of knicker-bockers. We do not think it is necessary for us to repeat how to find the various points, as that has already been fully dealt with, suffice it to say, they are found in precisely the same manner as described for trousers, diagrams 67 and 68, and although the dress is not shown in this and succeeding diagrams. yet it maybe token from them all, following the directions given under that head.

There are extensively used by boys when at school, and may be best explained as short trousers. We have arranged them without any fish out of the