Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/45

38 trousers, or more to the leg for the close cut, always retaining point 6 in the same position. Having fixed the position of line 6, we divide the width it is desired to have the lugs equally on each side at the knee, plus a seam equal $1/undefined$ inch (the position of the knee may generally be fixed at 2 inches above the half of the leg measure). The width at bottom may then be dealt with in the same manner, with the exception that the width at inside of leg is made $1/undefined$ small, so as to bring the legseam rather more forward; the bottoms should be slightly hollowed at 6. making the hollowest part 1 inch nearer the sideseam than 6. One of the new make of trousers sticks in of great advantage to draught the seams of trousers, by keeping them to a graceful curve, at the same time making the operation simple and more expeditious.

Having out out the topsides, we place them in such a position on the cloth as will allow the centre of legs to run with a Stripe, if possible. Mark round the fork and make up the size at bottom by adding on at leg seam what was omitted from the topside and round the bottom as shown. Now come up from 9, 3 inches, for boys, this may he made $1/undefined$ seat. Place the square on a line drawn from 12 to this point, and draw the seat seam at right angles to this, and make it form one continuous run with the fork. Now measure across from S to E in the manner shown by tape on diagram 68, and whatever that measures, place it on A of undersides, and measure forward to T the seat measure and 2 inches, (1 inch for seams, the other inch for allowance for the expansion of the body when sitting and stooping). It will be noticed that A is above point S, and taken across the seat in a slanting direction. The reason for this is, that as the seat angle or the 3 inches inserted from 9 upwards drops down in surplus length when on the figure, as the seat seam must come up the centre. A then comes opposite S, hence the necessity for bringing A the amount of seat angle above S, thus the com- bined size of seat measures 2 inches more than the half-seat. Now make the knee at sideseam a pivot to sweep from the top of topsides to find the correct length of sideseam of underside. Having done this, measure across the size of waist of topsides and apply the tape as shown, and making the combined size of top and undersides the half waist and seams, or if a fish is taken out, which we always advise when possible, allow another inch for the fish and two seams. thus making in all $2 1/2$ inches over the hull waist; now place the square on the seat seam, and draw a line from this point up to $2 1/4$, so that the undersides are still the amount of seat angle longer than the topsides, at the closing seam, so that allowing the seat angle to drop, as it undoubtedly will, when on, the top of underside will come on the same level as the top of the fronts, If it is desired to wear braces, it will be necessary to add on $1 1/2$ inches at 2 from the closing seam, if allowance has been made for a fish being taken out, proceed to mark it, but keep it well away from the sideseam, and landing the fulness at that part where judgment shows it in most required, a trifle further back than illustrated in these diagrams will be better than further forward. The sidesam may now be drawn from the points obtained, and if the thighs are desired to be particularly close-fitting, it may be hollowed in there a trifle The only remaining operation is

Make from 8 to 9 the difference between the two thigh measures; $11 1/4$,$12 1/4$ is also fixed in the same way. Sweep from knee to avoid making the un-dress side any shorter, and take out the dress from $1/undefined$ the seat up. In the Federation Prize Essay, we pointed out this took away the allowance made for the cocyxial quantity but at the some time pointed out the dress occupied this position, so that it is quite unnecessary for us to say any more on this topic, as doubtless most of my renders will have procured that work, if not, they will find in it much food for thought. We have often been asked to arrange this system to work with a division of the seat, as many have no opportunity in take their own measures, and consequently have to take the proportionate thigh, and this practically reduces it to a seat measure method, we give the necessary information with pleasure. Make 12 to $6 1/3$ seat, 12 to $9 1/2$, and 12 to $12 1/4$ a trifle over $2/2$ seat, say $1/undefined$