Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/43

36 will be, if possible, an improvement; at any rate it will be a more logical treatment of it. and with the view of making this as plain as possible, we have prepared.

Which shows the gluteal and femorial sections of the body in their relative positions to each other. or, Speaking in easier language, the Seat and thighs. The thigh although being slightly elliptical, yet is not sufficiently so to demand any variation of the treatment from a circle, and as we undoubtedly have to deal more with circumference than diameter in commotion with this, we have come to the conclusion that $1/undefined$ of the circumference of the tight thigh, plus the allowance for dress (which may be easily determined by taking the measures of both thighs at the same degree of closeness will give us as nearly as possible the correct amount of fork. This will in most cases come to exactly the same as the diameter, as both bear a fixed relation to the circumference, the allowance for dress varying from $3/4$ to $1 1/2$ inches. Let us take as an example a lad with a 32 seat, and 19 thigh; the diameter would be 6, whilst $1/undefined$ would be $4 3/4$ plus $1 1/4$ equal 6. Some may consider $1 1/4$ excessive for dress allowance, but we think not, as it is the universal custom to put whatever surplus shirt there may be at that part on the dress side; but if the measurement should prove 1 inch to be sufficient, well, the difference is then only $1/undefined$ inch, and we are of opinion the present quantity would be the most correct. Turning to the diagram. F to G shown the diameter, and D to E the part allotted to the fork with the addition of the dress at that side. It will be noticed from this diagram the ball of the seat extends backwards beyond the thigh, as illustrated from G to H; this is what necessitates a certain amount of, coupled with the necessity for an allowance for stooping, sitting. and so on. The former will require a 1 inch wedge, and the latter about 2 more, and making in all about 3 inches, this sent angle may be looked upon as a wedge let in the trousers directly above the thighs, and is shown on diagram 68, and bounded by 3, 9, 12. If we make a mark on the body just on the round of the seat, and another just about mid thighs, and measure the distance between these in an upright or standing position, and again, with the body bent as when in the act of snooping or sitting, we shall find the distance between the two marks on the skin has increased at least 4 or 5 inches. This shows the necessity for sitting down room, or to use the more technical term, "seat angle." When the body is so bent, there is no surplus length at top of thighs, but there is decidedly too much material in the lap; this, however, vanishes when the figure stands upright, and the wrinkles and folds appear at the bottom of neat. That this is necessary will be apparent to all, and it is the direct results of those allowances for sitting, stooping, etc. Of course if a gentleman desired a pair of trousers only to walk in, and we believe such demands are occasionally made, this seat angle might be reduced, to say, 1 inch, and the amount for ease almost. if not entirely dispensed with; but it is not every one who will have special trousers for each exercise he may take, hence the necessity for our producing garments that shall meet the general wants, and be as free from defects as possible. We trust that this will be sufficient to show that it is quite possible to produce a "Fashion Plate fit" on any one, so long as they remain in one position, but as to the fit being perfection in every position, the thing is an impossibility and should never be expected.

We now come to deal with another point in connection with trouser cutting, and that is: which is the most reliable measure to use as a factor in finding the fork quantity, the thigh or the seat? Some assert one and some the other, whilst others again look upon it as immaterial. Dr. Wampen is of this latter class, giving it as his opinion there are counteracting influences at work which almost nullify the variations which would be produced by either plan. However, we prefer

For this purpose, and our reasons for doing so are as follows: by a reference to figure 1, it will be seen that the thigh bone is one of those parts of the human frame work, the skeleton, which always remains near the surface of the skin, and that any abnormal developmental the thighs would take place at the inside of the leg. A reference to the figure