Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/39

32 material. There have also been a large number made for gentlemen who may be looked upon as leader of the fashion of the D.B. style, cut in precisely the same manner as this, but with a $1 3/4$ to $2 1/4$ button stand allowed on, which being pointed slightly upwards, comes under the roll; this is terminated in exactly the same manner as on this diagram, Others, again, have had the corners cut away from the bottom hole to about 4 inches across the bottom, producing rather a light effect. Some may think we have made this diagram to open rather low, but such is not the ease, it being a very usual custom with many firms to cut them quite $1 1/2$ inches lower than illustrated. One very important point must be noted in connection with Dress Vests, and that is that they do not come below the strap of the coat; with this and in view, it should always be tries on at the same time as the cut, as any discrepancy at this part is very unsightly, and evidences a great amount of carelessness, or a want of technical knowledge, both of which are serious faults in one whose profession it is to be fully acquainted with every detail of how all kinds of clothing should appear when on the figure, and in fact have an ideal in their minds of what the finished garment should be.

When these Vents are made from white material, it is the general rule to put eyelets for the buttons to be fastened with split rings through their shanks, so that they can be returned when it is required to be vanished; for the same purpose the buckle is put on at the back with a hole and button, so as to avoid discolouration of the Vest by its possible rusting. The old style of Dress Vest, which in now seldom seen except for livery servants, is cut in the some method as diagram 51, but of course to roll much lower; the same principles, however, are involved, and all the parts produced as therein described. The only point worth noting is, that whilst a heavy roll looks clumsy, yet the opposite extreme must be avoided, and to do so it will be found necessary to cut on a little "belly" to the lapel. We now come to

'''The D. B. Vest Fig. 37,'''

That garment being decidedly popular at present time, the only actual variation in cut being the addition of a lapel, or, putting it in other words, a very wide button stand, the lowering of the gorge being a point which may or may not be done, and is guided by the height the step is desired. If it is required to have the Vest to fasten up to the throat, it will be necessary to cut the lapel an exact counterpart of the forepart, which may be done by creasing or folding it down the breast line, and cutting that part off which comes over the breast line; this will form the V at the neck, and this in the only plan of getting it to fit well up at the neck and clean over the breast; any reduction in the size of this will show itself in a corresponding surplus length on the outer edge. As will be seen in the diagram, only a very small V is taken out at this part, as when the lapel rolls over as illustrated, a little extra length is needed to go over the round of breast; the immediate result of this V is to shorten the outside length of lap 4. The width of lapel is quite a matter of taste, and is fixed in this instance at $1 3/4$ at bottom,$2 1/4$, and $2 3/4$ in the widest part. The proper method of fixing the position of the buttons is to mark where the eye of the hole will come and then sweep from it by making a pivot at any point on the breast line, such as x at bottom. New repeat the operation by the x or lapel, which as will be seen is on the breast line, and where these arcs cross each other gives the exact position of the buttons, and ensure them being on the same level as the holes, and just as far behind the breast line as the eye of the hole is in front. This is a simple and reliable method, which we have no doubts will be appreciated now those Bests have become popular, and as the same principle applies to all D.B. garments, it will give a good guide for fixing the exact position of the buttons on such. In making, it is often customary to cut away that part of the lapel beyond the crease row, and merely leaving on a little above the end of lapel, as per dash line; this of course is more generally practised on the score of economy, but at the same time it gives a thinner lapel, though one that cannot be worked up to well. This, however, is not of so much importance as with a coat it being the general plan to fasten the top corner down to the forepart, either by a secret stitch or a button at that part. A tommy button is put to secure the under part in position and prevent it riding up and making the crease edge appear loose. The pockets