Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/38

Rh button cut in the same way, but these and other novelties are only made so casually, that they hardly demand a place in such a work as this, as although youths are always on the alert for something fresh, yet their parents have to be consulted in this matter, and they always object to anything of an extreme character, justly judging that the sense of good taste is to have every garment harmonising with each other to such an extent that it would be difficult to say any part of the costume was conspicious.

This is produced by precisely the same diagram an the step collar, in fact, the only variation being that the collar is brought to the end of the lapel, and formed into a graceful turn. This style of vest is the one that perhaps more than any other is worn with the Eton Jacket, although the no-collar vest would run it close tor this. It is also the Groom's Livery Vest, besides being frequently worn on ordinary occasions. The edges in this diagram are left bluff, that style being the general rule for Livery, and when black cloth was used for Eton Jackets it was customary to leave it bluff for that also, but as the garments are so seldom made from this material now, black worsted and Vienna having superseded it, the mode of finishing the edges has varied in like manner, so that the Worsted are usually bound and the Viennas and soft Wools stitched or corded. The cutter who knows his business will note which are the most effective finishes for the various materials, and so produce the best results in each garment. These are some of the points where the art comes in, and as we claim to be artists we should know how the best effect on each individual customer can he produced from a garment of a given material, and if in our opinion the material is unsuitable, such as would be the case if a prominent stripe is selected for a suit for a tall thin youth, or a large check for a stout one; it than becomes our duty to suggest other patterns, and if we do it in a judicious manner, customers will readily listen to the claims of art, it being their aim, as well as ours for them, to clothe in such garments as will make them appear to the best advantage.

This is cut in precisely the same way as described for the no collar, namely, the gorge filled up to the extent of about $5/8$ of an inch, or equal to the height of the collar-stand, and the front hollowed out as shown. It is a difficult matter to make them too hollow at the lower part at the same time it must be the aim of the cutter to retain a harmonious run or curve with the opposite aide, still the one great point is to keep it well hollow at the bottom. It is also advisable as producing a better effect, if it is slightly rounded near the top at $13 1/4$, or midway between the neck point and the level of scye; this forms s more artistic curve than if kept very hollow all the way up, and at the same time helps to keep it snug to the figure at that part. Although it is highly essential to keep it clone fitting at the hollow, yet we do not find it necessary to do more than steady it. V's are decidedly objectionable, as producing far too short a frontedge, and making the garment stand away at the botom, a defect Dress Vests seem to be specially liable to. The collar is out by the forepart, and it is just as well to cut these a trifle more hollow, so as to throw a little more vase on the outside edge, as if this is at all contracted it is liable to turn outwards and show the collar lining. The outside collar is made to just turn over the crease edge, say $1/undefined$ an inch, and the lining felled to it. Our diagram illustrates the style in which they are generally finished, as well as the amount of opening. There are usually three buttons only and two pockets, the welts for which are rather lighter than usual, being from $5/8$ to $3/4$. As will be seen the edges are traced with narrow Russia braid, and again behind that is a fancy tracing braid, which produces a very nice effect. In the bottom corner a flower is embroidered in black silk. This, however, is only adopted occasionally, and by such young gentlemen who are desirous of having something exceptionally stylish. These are generally mode from the same material as the coat, and when not so, are either white Marcella or Pique, or a white or fancy Silk, Moiré, or Watered Silk is very popular at present, and amongst the novelties in Dress Vests this season, we noted many or this