Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/37

30 position, and if the new vest is different to the old the change is most probably objected to. Many people have a great objection to changes such as these; in fact we think it may be traced to the inborn conservatism of the human race, for if you can only produce a garment to fit as easy and suit the wearer as well as the old one you are sure to please him. As will be seen, this diagram is finished in the step collar style, a collar being out on the same lines as laid down for s coat but of course narrower. This is undoubtedly the leading style, but as represented hero is specially suitable for tweed, the edges being stitched. It may be as well, perhaps, to note that if thought desirable the scye may be enlarged to any reasonable extent without detriment.

We now come to the

This is a very general favourite for boys' wear, and frequently worn with the Eton jacket. It is a very neat style, and is very popular at the present time. It is thinner round the neck, so that there is something to commend it. As will be noticed, this is arranged for bound edges, and therefore, as there will not he any seam taken off the edges, it will not be necessary to allow on so much in front, and consequently only allow $1/undefined$ an inch of button-stand. The only point of variation in the method of cutting is to fill up the neck as shown, to the extent of the height of collar-stand required by the customer, and leave a notch taken out to the hollowest port of gorge to which a collar band is sewn to come round the back neck. It will be noticed a small amount of spring is left at this notch; the purpose of this is to provide the necessary ease required by the neck at that part, This, although the only special feature in a no-collar vest, is a rather important one, and should never be overlooked, or the vest will slip away from the neck all round. As will be seen, the welts are bound round the end, a plan that should always be adopted when high class productions are aimed at as it gives a very much superior finish to the whole garment, and as the difference in time occupied between the two methods is so small, it should never be permitted to come into competition with the effect; produced by the superior finish on the whole garment. Although only a small matter, yet to put in these details we can excel and produce results which will not only give us a reputation for excellence of workmanship, but help to raise the status of tailoring. As soon as each individual member of the craft realises the fact that he is directly responsible for the elevation of tailoring, so soon shall we advance and place the profession on a footing second to none.

This is cut precisely the same as the no-collar vest, the step being produced by a notch taken out, as shown, in whatever position deemed the most effective, the other part of the neck being kept, if anything, rather straighter. This is the style in which the majority of these are made, but, of course, they can be, and often are, produced by cutting the gorge down as for a step collar, and sewing on a collar forming the step at the end in the position desired.

This is it very simple style, yet it is astonishing how much difference a little taste makes in the position and shape of the notch.

This is a new style, and one that has a very dressy appearance; it is cut in just the shape it is desired when finished, and the collar-stand being cut in one with the vest as described for the no-collar, and is bend put in at the notch to go round the back neck, the collar for this is cut exactly the same shape as forepart, and is merely laid on. The method, perhaps, will be more readily gathered, if we refer to the fly of a pair of trousers, as an illustration of how this is done. These novelties are very good to touch the student how various effects are produced, rather than as standard styles, and as this is too extreme for that. we give it for the two-fold purpose of illustrating present fashion as well as how to produce this effect. No-collar vest are sometimes cut with the opening above the top