Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/36

Rh reliable, and quick. It, however, takes more of the practical than the scientifc phase of cutting, so that it will be desirable for us to give the system for producing vests independently of the coat.

Draw line O 17. O 3 is $1/6$, raise point $3/4$,$1/4$ this quantity, O 9 is the depth of scye as taken. Draw line at right angles to this, hollow back seam at 17, $1 1/2$ inch., and mark off from back seam to $10 1/2$,$1 1/2$ inches more then chest measure, and come back from it $1/undefined$ an inch less than the cross chest measure taken; sweep from this point by is quarter of an inch less than the front shoulder less the width of back neck, and also from the front at $19 1/2$ by $3/4$ of an inch more than this quantity. Make point $3 1/2$ on back to taste, in this case $1/2$ inch less than $1/undefined$, O 9, and square across to 6$6 1/2$ an inch less than the width of neck, which in the absence of a measure may be fixed by making the width of shoulder seam $1/2$ inch more than a fourth of breast; i.e, the half breast. Now draw the shoulder seam of beck and then measure across from 9 in the direction of shoulder seam, and whatever the back measures, deduct from the over shoulder measure, and sweep by the remainder, less a quarter of an inch from a point $1 1/2$ inches above 12, but bringing the tape down to 12. Make the width of front shoulder a trifle less than the width of back and draw scye as shown. Make the width of back $1/2$ the breast and $3/4$ of an inch, and the waist $1/undefined$ and $3/4$ an inch. Now square down from $9 3/4$. and hollow 1 inch to find the sideseam of forepart and make the width of front at waist $1/2$ waist and $3/4$ of an inch, and shape the underarm seam as shown by this arrangement; the forepert will overlap the back for large waists Special attention should he given to the spring over the hips as many vests are defective in this point. The lengths may now he marked for the opening and bottom, allowing $1/undefined$ an inch extra for opening and $1/undefined$ inch to the full length as per the measure taken, which allowances are for the amount consumed in the various seams. The height of gorge may be made $1/undefined$ below the neck point, or higher or lower according to taste and if anywhere near that point, it may be made is pivot by which to sweep for the side length from the bottom, as at 26, raising the side $1/2$ inch above sweep; the back may be pointed upwards at bottom as shown, or arranged to taste. There is also another point which may he arranged either to taste or to get a large vest out of a smell quantity of cloth, that is the underarm seam, and although the position allotted is perhaps the most suitable, yet the fronts may be made wider or narrower as the cutter wishes, the only point being that whatever is taken off the front must be added on the back, so that the combined widths of back and forepart measure $1 1/2$ inches over breast and waist from the centre of back to the centre of front at the respective parts. The pockets should be put as nearly as possible at the hollow of the waist, and we have found it is very good plan to come up 5 inches from the bottom for all ordinary length vests, to find the top of the front edge of the welt, which should measure about 5 inches long and for $3/4$ or $7/8$ wide. The watch pocket is put in slightly on the slant, its position not being a very vital matter, but it should be arranged for the back end to he slightly in front of the scye and about 2 inches or so below its level A watch pocket welt should never measure less than $3 1/2$ inches long by $3/4$ wide; watches do not vary in size in accordance with the age or size of the wearer, so that it is quite necessary those should be made large enough to take a good-sized watch. There have been as good many dodges put forward at various times for the protections of watches from thieves, and we think amongst the best is the method of leaving the seam of the welt open wide enough to put the guard through; it will then be an impossibility for pickpockets to steal the watch. The buckle and strap should be put on at the hollow of waist, and we always prefer those to come into the sideseam and then fastened again to the back about one-third of the way across. In making, a pleat should be left through the front shoulder of the lining and the facing put on very tight at the bottom corner in order to make it curl inwards to the figure nicely, and the facing baisted to the canvas. When the customer is very full over the hips it is frequently an advantage to leave slits at the side. The customer's wishes should be carefully studied in every detail, and prominent amongst these we must mention the guard-hole, as they get accustomed to wearing the chain in a certain