Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/35

 28 Valencia; and when the in adopted the stripes run up and down the figure.

The Breeches are generally made from white Buckskin cloth, and in style of cut resemble the Gent's Riding Breeches shown on diagram 74, but are not so extreme if the line by which to draw the front is dropped from 12 at side from $3/4$ to 1 inch, instead of 1$1/2$, that will be quite sufficient. Like the Gent's, the Groom's Breeches button to the front of knee, and the top button should be just about the small, the tack being placed 1 inch below the knee, and the top button 1 inch below that, three buttons show above the top boots and two above the leggings. An inch should be allowed for fulness on the topsides at knee, and a similar amount allowed on the undersides above the level of crutch to allow of it being fulled on to form a receptacle for the seat. They are generally made close fitting as regards the size of thigh and leg, and the fronts made in whole fall style, but this must by no means be taken for granted, as fly fronts are made for this class of servant.

Although top boots are generally worn, yet gaiters are often adopted, diagrams of which will be found in the Federation Prize Essay on Trouser Cutting. The instructions laid down up to this point, although applied more particularly to Youths' Jackets, Coats, &c., embody principles which may be applied with equal success to all sizes both large and small, the working of the system making all the necessary changes of its own accord, with the exception of corpulency; hints on the treatment of which and other abnormalities will be found in the "Cutter's Practical Guide," Part II., at the end of the volume.



We now come to deal with another brunch of cutting, and for which a further adaptation of the system is necessary. A vest is really nothing more nor less than an under coat, and the same principles which apply to the cutting of coats will apply with equal force to them. One thing, however, will be soon apparent to even the most unobservant, viz., that they are not required so large. In the system as explained below, and referred to in diagrams 56 and 57, this variation is made by adjusting the width across chest $1/2$ an inch, and making it only 1$1/2$ inches over the breast measure from the centre of the back to the breast line, whilst it is just as well to reduce the front and over shoulder measures $1/4$ inch, but we will treat more of this in dealing with the system. In practice it has been our almost universal custom to produce our  Inasmuch an they are worn over and have to fit the same portion of the body as the coat. The method we adopt is as follows: chalk round the pattern of the shoulders, back seam and breast line in front. Hollow the back $1/2$ to 1 inch at waist, and being equal to half the suppression taken out at sideseam of coat, with the view of providing a receptacle for the blades; and measure from the back seam forward $1/2$ vest and $3/4$ of an inch on the level of scye line, and $1/2$ waist and $3/4$ of an inch at natural waist; then apply the same at the front, but measuring back from the breast line fill up the neck point a trifle, say $1/4$ of an inch; and shorten the shoulder right across $1/4$ inch; hollow out the scye about $1/2$ or $3/4$ inch, either at front and back or all round, as it is seldom looked upon as a detriment for a breast to be large in the scye, and as long as sleeves are not added, we do not know there are any defects likely to arise from it. A button stand must be added all down the front, according to the style desired, $3/4$ of an inch being the amount usually allowed for an ordinary S.B. The length in obtained in the same way as described with the next system. In practice we have found this to work admirably, so can recommend it with confidence as being simple,