Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/34

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Garments that have a stand collar invariably button up to the throat, so that it is not necessary to take the gorge into consideration here, hence one pattern of stand collar does for all sizes by merely varying the Width at top and the length at back. The system for producing them is as follows: Draw line O 8 the length collar is desired, and measure up from 8, 1 inch, and drew sewing-to-edge by points thus obtained, letting it join line O 8 about halfway across from O to $1 1/2$ is the depth of collar required at the back, and 1, $2 1/4$ is the depth of collar required in the front; come in from $2 1/2$ $1/undefined$ an inch, and draw the top edge as shown. As a rule it is immaterial whether these collars have a seam up the beck as at O $1 1/2$, but when, as in the present instance, the back has no seam in it, the collar should be arranged to follow suit, as it is by no means a necessity. We find buckram is very much better than canvas to put through these, as it is highly essential they should retain their stiffness, otherwise they have a very sloppy appearance. An inlay is left all along the bottom of a Pages Jacket, and the breast pocket, which is usually pieced in the left breast, should have the mouth to run vertically, that is, up and down; this enables the hand to use it with greater ease; when the edges are not piped they are left bluff, that being the universal custom with Liveries.

The Page's trousers are of the ordinary close-fitting type, and may be made rather smarter fitting than is the rule for other Liveries, and as the seat is fully exposed to view, care must be taken to avoid having any surplus materiel, either in width or length, although of course sufficient width must be left for ease or stooping, &c.; they are always made fly front, and when the edges of jacket are piped, the sideseam of trousers are done to match.

This, as will be seen, is a close-fitting single-breasted Frock, to button 6 up the front; this number is sometimes reduced to 5, but the first is generally looked upon as the regulation number. It is produced exactly as previously described for the Morning Coat, with the exception that it is made to fasten right down the front, and the waist is mode to fit tight, as any excess of width at that part would readily show itself when worn with a belt as they generally are. The variation in the skirt is done to produce more fulness, and as will be readily gathered from an examination of the diagram, no difference exists behind the sidebody from the system, as laid down for the Morning Coat skirt, it being readily followed that both styles should fit exactly the same at the pleats. The variation then takes place at the front, where it is allowed to overlap the forepart 2 inches at least: if a very full skirt is required this quantity may be increased to 3 inches, but as a general rule 2 inches will be sufficient for this class of skirt, the run of the front may than be obtained by placing the square with one arm resting on the hip button at bottom corner of sidebody, and the other end raised as much above the level of the skirt seam in front as that part overlaps the forepart; this will give the correct angle at which the front should be drown. Another way is to put the forepart in a closing position with the skirt, and draw the front by tint; either method will produce satisfactory results, so that our readers may adopt which plan they consider best. A short pointed side edge is put at the pleats 9 inches long in the form shown on diagram, with the centre button a trifle nearer the top than the bottom one. This at one time was used as an entrance to the pocket, but the present custom is to put the pockets in the pleats. The edges are either left bluff or piped with a contrasting colour. When the latter course is adopted, the fronts, collars, cuffs, buck skirt, end side edges are piped, the bottom edge being left plain; seemed and pressed open, always makes a neater bluff edge than a felled one, both of which methods are in vogue by first class Livery houses. The style of cuff used is the some as shown on diagram 54. It may be as well to mention in connection with these that it is the custom to put all linings of's very plain character, and for this reason wadding or padding of any description is only flash-baisted in; this applies to all Livery garments except Page's. Groom's vests are generally made of the roll collar style, often with sleeves, the material used being either the some as the coat, or a striped