Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/33

26 forming an underarm seam to the sleeve. The bottom sleeves are finished with a $1/undefined$ or $5/8$ inch hem, and the bottom is finished in like manner, but rather wider, the neck being done ditto; but in this case it is necessary to sew on a piece, and so form a false hem in the same way we case trouser bottoms. In order to get sufficient spring on the outside edge, it will he necessary to out this piece on the bias, or, of course, it may be cut exactly the same as neck of surplice, but in any case it must be made so that it lies quite smooth and fair all round. The seams of this are sewn in the same way as a shirt is usually done, viz., seamed and turned over, and felled or stitched The neck being out so large, enables the garment being put on or off with ease, so that holes and buttons are not necessary, as in the case of those styles for clergymen, that fasten right up to the neck. There are many styles of surplice, but this is the one generally known as the Chroister's

For the sake of economy, the back is arranged with the selvedge edges sown together and coming down the back, and so saving material as mentioned.

The material generally used for these is linen.

We now come to deal with mother speciality, viz., those garments warn by the page boy, and the tiger or groom, and illustrated on

Taking first the Page's Jacket, we find it is cut very much in the shape of an Eton Jacket, but made to fasten up the front and the neck finished with a stand collar, the principal variation being a rather wider back than for the Eton. As this is made to it quite close, care must be taken to form ample spring over the hips, it being decidedly preferable to err on the side of too much rather than too little spring. As these jackets are seldom worn with a vest, care must be taken not to cut them too large, for although they are usually interlined with wedding and quilted all over the forepart, and occasionally the back, too, yet this hardly makes up for the want of the vest, so that we have found $1 3/4$ a-side over the breast measure to be quite sufficient. It will of course be noticed that the back in cut on the crease, and like the Eton, cut with a point at bottom, which usually runs about $3 1/2$ inches below the waist. Like all garments that button up the front, this should be cut with only about $5/8$ or $3/4$ of an inch beyond the breast line on the button-hole side, and an extra button stand allowed on; by this arrangement the buttons come exactly up the centre of the figure when buttoned, as the eye of the hole comes just on the breast line. Care should be taken to get the gorge the right size of neck, as it is a very unsightly fault, and a tedious alteration when it is too large. The collar is generally fastened at the neck with hooks and eyes, and sometimes a button and notched hole is put in the end, as illustrated on the midshipman's diagram 23. The buttons down the front are arranged so that there are about 16, but sometimes there are three rows of studs, in which case they are plugged through the foreparts, both up the front and over the shoulder, the garment being actually fastened with hooks and eyes, and the buttons or studs down the front for ornament only. One of the points connected with these buttons is to put them just thick enough to preserve one unbroken line, but there is a danger of putting them too thick, which must be specially guarded against, as in such case they present a very crooked appearance. When these jackets are edged they are usually edged up the front, round the collar and cuffs, and sometimes, but by no means always. round the bottom. The style of cuff varies somewhat, but that shown on diagram 54 is the one more generally adopted, and which may be justly looked upon as the livery cuff, as it is universally used for all kinds of Livery Coats. As will be seen it is either a cuff formed, or a row of stitching 2 inches from the bottom, and a hole and button put above and one below, so that when the edges are piped, there is a piping also along the top of this cuff. The other Style which is occasionally adopted, is the pointed cuff, the front being brought up rather nearer the forearm than the back, and along the top of which the piping runs. When this style ls adopted, it is customary to dispense with holes and buttons at the cuff.