Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/31

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Which is produced as follows; all garments that are finished with this style of collar fastening up to the throat, it is not necessary to take the gorge into consideration beyond its length, hence the diagram may be taken as a standard pattern for this collar. Draw line O 8, which is perfectly straight, and make it the length of the gorge; come up from 8 1 inch, and draw the sewing to edge of the collar, as from 1 to O; O should just above $1 3/4$ at the other end of line 8. Now mark the stand upwards from this, say $1 1/4$ at back, and from $1/undefined$ to $3/4$ in front, and draw the crease edge; the fell may then be added to taste, in this case being made $1 3/4$ inches at back, and $1 1/2$ in front; hollow the centre of back about $1/4 inch$, and spring it forward at $1 1/2$ as shown. Many Invernersses, however are worn with a small turn, and to some this is a bit of a puzzle. There are two (if not more) ways of doing this: the one is to cut the forepart of diagram 43 off in the shape of a no-collar vest, and in making up make the turn on the wing, fastening the forepart to it to within about one inch of the centre or breast line, that being sufficient to steady the wing and at the same time allows plenty of case for buttoning both. The other method is to cut the Cape away to about 1 inch behind the breast, the disadvantage to this way being that it does not allow of the Cape being buttoned across the front, which is overcome to a certain extent by putting tabs at the bottom corner to fasten it to buttons put on the forepart. There is another style of Inverness worn at present, with the Cape coming all round the back, but we shall refer to this later on under the title of the Scarborough, so that we will proceed with the next garment, viz.

The diagram for this is very nearly self-explanatory, as it shows the style in which these are not only cut but made. Of course a great variety of styles exist in the manner in which they are trimmed, but them are few more effective or popular than our illustrations. As will be seen, the cuffs and collars are finished with quilted satin, usually of a contrasting colour, and the edges corded to match the satin, which terminate at the bottom with a crow's toe, this method is also used for the trimming of the cuff above the satin; as will he noticed, the collar is of the roll form, a style which is invariably adopted for Dressing Gowns, although occasionally we see them fastening to the throat with a stand collar, but this is the exception rather than the rule. The fronts and pockets are also trimmed with cord, the latter being corded round and terminated with a crow's toe, the same style of ornament is also adopted for the cords across the breast, together with an eye on either side in the centre; the cord is left in loops beyond on the left side, so that it may go over the barrels or olivets placed on, or a little distance from, the crow's toe. A wollen girdle is put through loops placed one on either side, which are sometimes supplemented by one at the back; this is also of the same colour as the satin and cord. Turning our attention to the cutting. They are cut to the easy side at breast, and decidedly loose-fitting at the waist. They are out with $2 1/2$ inches allowance for making up et client, and are made 1 inch wider at back then dotted line, and the forepart is made to overlap the back also 1 inch at the natural waist, which lines are carried straight through to the bottom; the amount of overlap in this case is 3 inches, which may be reduced if desired. It will be noticed all the other points are produced in the same way as the Lounge, and the scye deepened a trifle, say $1/4$ of an inch. The sleeve should be made to the easy side, at least $1/undefined$ inch wider at both elbow and wrist than for a Lounge. The roll collar ls cut by the same system as explained in diagram 30, with the exception that no step is taken out, the collar being made to form one continuous run with the front. These garments are required more for ease than closeness of fit, so that the only part at which it will be necessary to pay special attention will be the shoulders and neck; the back, as will be seen. is cut on the crease. The fronts are generally faced a little way back, and the pockets are patched on the inside.

This is a garment the tailor is frequently called upon to make, it being used rather extensively, and