Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/29

22 the conclusion there are very few who can cut a good-fitting Cape. We trust this one will be of service to them; it has answered our purpose and given satisfaction to hundreds: and being very simple and reliable, we have no doubt it will be a valuable addition. Draw a square as per dotted lines, or rather two lines at right angles, and place the back with the beck seam on one line, and then place the forepart down with the breast line on the dotted line, so that the shoulder points are at least 1 inch apart. Mark round the neck and shoulder of back, and the gorge and shoulder of forepart, taking out a V as at $3/4$ The inch of fulness should be fulled on to the forepart in the same style as a sleeve. Now continue the shoulder seam right through to bottom, and make the width of back on a level with the natural waist at about $3/4$ of breast; a trifle more or less is of no consequence. Take out a V of 3 or 4 inches at bottom according to the degree of closeness it is desired to make the Cape to fit. Make the length of back to customer's wishes, and then deduct the distance the shoulder seam is below the level of neck (as O $3 1/3$ diagram 37) from this, and get the length of side by applying this measure from the end of shoulder seem at X, Make the front length $3/4$ of an inch longer from O than back, and draw the bottom edge by these points. Add on a button stand if it is desired it should button over up the fronts, or if it is wished to wear it with a collar and turn as in figure 18, cut it to the dot and dash line, which should be about $1 1/2$ or 2 inches behind the breast line. Some may ask the reason of the V at $1 3/4$ it is necessary to provide sufficient room for the shoulder and avoid surplus width at the bottom, and this is the only method of producing this unless the back is made much wider, and the seam made to run exactly over the shoulder, which does not give nearly such a stylish appearance as this method. In cutting from the cloth the back should be cut on the crease. and the pattern (cheek or stripe) made to run straight with the front edge of forepart, so that it is only cut through at the shoulder seems. This may be continued to any length desired by merely adjusting the length as described above. If a fuller Cape is desired. swing the forepart more forward by reducing the distance between A O, still keeping the shoulders in the same position; this may be done till the shoulders are brought together, end there is no seam at A X, which then produces a very full Cape known as the Three-quarter Circular Cape.

Hoods are produced in a very similar way to capes, and we here illustrate two different styles, the dot and dash line being the jelly-bag hood. and the longer and solid outline being the cape hood. The back and forepart are placed together, with the ends of the shoulders touching as per dotted linen, and the run of the neck is thus obtained; this is really the only part of the hood that fits, all the other being purely a question of taste and style. The cape hood is very suitable for gentlemen; F G H being sewn together up to G, and I H is sewn to the corresponding part on the other side, the V at neck C B D is sewn up, and that part up from I to E is drawn in with elastic or cord. If wanted to put on or off, it will be best to sew the neck to a narrow band and fasten it to the stand of the collar with holes and buttons, the seam coming just on the top of the collar seam. They are sometimes lined but not often, that plan being more frequently adopted for ladies. The jelly-bag is a much smaller style of hood, and is pointed at the bottom, it makes up in the same way, and is very close-fitting to the head in wear. These are the two principal styles of hoods worn by gentlemen. Other types being more of a fancy nature, are more suitable for ladies.

The easiest way of producing this very comfortable style of garment is by a Chesterfield block, which is shown on diagram 35, by the dotted lines. The old style of Inverness was very loose and baggy, but the present style ls to have it much closer fitting, with just enough room in the cape to allow of the arms being put "akimbo"

The great feature in dealing with an Inverness is to avoid a wide back, as that is very apt to produce