Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/28

Rh whilst for a D.B. illustrated by the dash line in front of diagram 37, it will be necessary to allow 3 to 3½ inches, and find the position of buttons as just described. The slit at back should start 9 inches down from the natural waist, and the back ticking allowed as shown; marking out 1¼ from the back at that part, and drawing a straight line from O at top through the 1¼. This will give the correct run to the back lacking. As worn at present, it is turned in to run level with the back seam, which is certainly much neater than when they were made with a step at that part. The fish under the arm may be omitted for Ulsters, and the sidearm hardly so much suppressed, as it is not intended to fit as close as the Chester, the length being continued by adding on at the bottom to the desired extent. In order to get the front of a length sufficient to agree with the back, it will be necessary to make it ¾ of an inch longer than the back, measuring from line 9½ downwards, and independent of any variation which may exist from that line upwards and which would arise from the various positions of different customers. Care should be taken not to put the pockets too low, as that makes it inconvenient for the wearer; at the same time it is advisable to guard against them being too high, as that does not look in accordance with good taste. Some of our best firms, Poole's, for instance, of Savile Row. leave these till the garment is tried on, when they mark the position they consider the most suitable when the garment is on, and this is certainly a very capital plan Others again take a measure for this purpose, in order that they may be put in before the garment is tried on, as when trying on it is out of the question to alter their position. Others put the sleeve with the forearm at the forearm pitch, and mark the pocket mouth about 3½ inches above the bottom of sleeve, whilst the majority leave it to their individual judgment and taste, fixing them in some such a position as shown. It will he noticed the ticket pocket of this is brought more forward than the hip pocket, but this is by no means a regulation style, there being an many put in with ticket pocket level with the front of those at hip, and in some cases they are put very near the front, so that they are under the fly and so out of sight. The position of the breast pocket is found in the same manner as for a Lounge. In putting in the hip and ticket pocket, it is always as well to put a back and front facing, as that takes most of the wear.

Conveys a capital idea of how these coats are made up inside. the shaded part slung the bottom being an inlay to which the lining is folded. A linen bridle is put along the crease row at B, and in some firms the ends of the shoulders are built up with two or three thicknesses of canvas nicely graded as at A, but in such a ease it will be necessary to cut rather more on the shoulder end. It will be noticed that pleats are put in the lining down the front shoulder under the arm, and down the back, and the fly kept a seam behind the front edge, the stay for the hip pocket; being either carried in to the scye or to the sideseam; either plan will do, but it is scarcely necessary to use both. A V of silk is put in the front of scye to allow ample room at that part, the in breast pockets should be jeated top and bottom, and faced. The two hip pockets of an Overcoat should always be either cloth or chamois leather, as silesia feels poor and cold to put the hands in. The lining as represented is a woollen plaid, which should always be well shrunk before being put in, or it will give good deal of trouble.

Is produced on precisely the same lines as described previously, the only variation being the increased width of both elbow and wrist by $3/4$ of an inch, and the cuff stitched as shown. It should always be made at point to flash-baste the lining to both seams in all coats, but more especially is this necessary with Overcoats, for it relieves the drag which is sure to occur in putting on or taking off the coat, and especially so when silk sleeve linings are not used, either on account of expense or wear. If Italian cloth is need it should be cut with sleeve running across the material, not lengthways.

if we may judge by the number of applications for a really reliable Cape System, we must come to