Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/27

20 slits are left at the side, and a facing should be left on the forepart for this. Four out pockets, all finished with flaps, and a tab for the collar, see diagram 35, are all features of this coat. Turning to the cutting, it will be seen it is cut to a size larger than the Lounge, adding $3/8$ to front and over shoulder measures, but of the some style, and $1 3/4$ left all down the front for a button stand; extra spring is left over the hips, and, as will be seen, the front is carried down straight. If the measures have been taken on the customer as in the ordinary way, it will be necessary to make the following additions: add 1 inch a side to the chest measure, so that from $9 1/4$ to $21 1/4$ will be 1 inch more than for the Lounge, that being the quantity it is always safe to allow for an Overcoat when the measure has been taken on the vest, which plan we always advise, as it will be patent to all that various coats will measure differently; and as we wish to produce a garment that will suit the customer over the average style of coat, it will always be safe to get as near his actual measure as possible, and then make such allowance as experience teaches is correct. This quantity we believe to be 1 inch a side, which is divided as follows: one-fifth at back, two-fifths across chest, and two-fifths under the arms, but if that is not so easy as quarter inches, then we would give $1/undefined$ inch extra across the back, $3/8$ under the arm, and $3/8$ across the chest. This should be increased to $1 1/4$ a side extra at the waist, as owing to the pockets, &c., the waist increases faster than the chest; use the other error measures in exactly the same way as for a lounge, adding $3/8$ to $1/2$ inch to both front and over shoulders, and then deepen the scye $1/2$ an inch; if $5/8$ it will be better in a stout material. The sleeves should also be made quite $1/2$ or $3/4$ of an inch wider at elbow and cuff than for a Lounge, on both top and underside. It is always wise to err on the side of a too long fall edge to the collar than the reverse, for, being exposed to all inclemencies of the weather, they would soon shrink if any amount of stretching were necessary to bring them to a correct shape. Those hints are applicable to all overcoats, and as we shall have occasion to refer to them again, we wish to impress them on our readers' minds. Covert Coats are usually made from 2 to 4 inches longer than the Lounge, one of the great features being their shortness, as if made long they at once lose their distinctive character, and become a short Chesterfield.

These are produced in the same way as just described, either by falling the sectional measures for a size larger and adding $3/8$ to the front and over shoulder measure, or if you have the opportunity of measuring the customer yourself to make the necessary addition as described for a Covert Coat. Chesterfields and Ulsters are made looser-fitting rather than the Covert Coat as as rule, so that if a very close fit is desired, it will be as well to take that as the model, and merely add to the length. It may be as well to recapitulate the variations to be made from the measures for an Overcoat:


 * Allow $3 1/2$ over chest.
 * $3 1/2$ over
 * $3 1/2$ waist.
 * Add $1/undefined$ inch to cross back measure.
 * $1/undefined$   chest measure.
 * $1/undefined$   front shoulder.
 * $1/undefined$   over shoulder.
 * Deepen scye $1/undefined$ an inch.

Make natural waist $1/undefined$ inch lower, and make sleeve $1/undefined$ inch wider at elbow and cuff and $1/undefined$ inch longer. The spring over the hips in this case is arranged by coming in from the waist at side 6, and dropping 1 inch, and then drawing the lower part of sideseam at right angles to this as shown; this may either be used in units or inches, as it makes no difference, both producing the same angle. It will be noticed that in addition to the allowance of 1 inch a-side for being an Overcoat, $2 1/2$ inches is allowed for making up, which will be found about right for all Winter goods, but too much for thin Worsteds and Venetians as used for Summer Overcoats, 2 inches will be quite enough for these. The solid outline of this diagram illustrates the allowance usually left beyond the centre line for a fly front, such as figure 20, being 2 to $2 1/4$ inches, and which will necessitate the buttons Standing 3 to $3 1/2$ inches back from the edge of the right forepart, or the same distance behind the breast-line as the eye of the whole is in front of it. For a button through coat, single breasted, as on figure 20, it will only be necessary to allow $1 1/2$ inches beyond the breast line,