Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/26

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Is frequently made from the same material as the Jacket, hence our giving a diagram to enable the tailor to supply every want of his customer in this direction. The stripes are generally mode to run round, although that by no means necessarily follows. The shape generally preferred is that known as the Eton; it being very largely need at this training ground of our aristocracy. The special feature in them is that they come over the back of the head miller more than ordinarily: the system for producing them in as follows: O to $11 1/2$ half the circumference of the head, plus seams; this is then divided into three parts. viz. the front side and back; the front is $1/4$ inch above line at O, and the back is lowered $3/4$; O to $5 3/8$ is half the distance O $11 1/2$; point $5 5/8$ is half $11 1/2$ from $5 1/2$; and 2 and $9 1/4$ are placed rather over $1/9$ from either end, so as to make the seam nearest to the centre piece the shortest.

May be reproduced exactly as shown, and making O 6 rather over half $11 1/2$. Of course it will be readily understood this only represents the half of the peak, the part at $1 1/2$$3 l/2$ being cut on the crease. In making up it will be as well to put a stay tape round the bottom edge, and keep it to the size of the head. The cap itself is lined with white Silesia or Silk. and the peak lined with the same material as the cap is made from, a piece of very still buckram or leather being put through the Peak to keep it firm.

We now come to deal with Overcoats and certainly there is no more effective style than the Covert Coat, for such purposes as riding, walking, &c. It has a natty, smart appearance, totally distinct from the longer styles. It is also made rather closer-fitting than the ordinary overcoat, but this will he gathered from the diagrams. One of the special features in this garment is the style in which the seams are finished, they are seldom left plain, but more frequently strapped with a piece of the some material out on the reverse way of the wool about 1 inch wide, which in then merged together, laid on top of the seams. and stitched close on the edge. The reason it is cut the wrong way of the wool is to make it show up more prominently than it would if the pile runs the same way. When we speak of the reverse way of the wool we do not mean upside down, but with the pile running round the figure; of course there are other ways besides this, such as slating generally used with Meltons, and such materials as will stand raw edge. Then again, there are raised seams which merely consist of turning the sewn aside and stitching it from the outside instead of pressing it open; whilst others stitched on either aide of the seam after it is pressed open. In our opinion the first style is the moat effective, especially with drab Venetians, such as Covert Coats are usually made from. The hindarm of the sleeve is frequently mode to run with the shoulder seam so that the strapping shall go in one continuous line; and when that is desired, it will be necessary to take some from the topside sleeve and add to the under, and by that means adjust the run of the sleeve at whatever position you may desire. It is frequently a difficulty to put the strapping down the forearm seam, and it may not be out of place if we give a plan whereby it is fairly easy. This consists of preparing the strapping and stitching it to the topside previous to the seam being sewn, and then stitch down the other side of the strapping also before joining the seam, after which the seam may be either lapped under the strapping or seemed in the ordinary way, after which it will be necessary to fell the undersleeve to the strapping, with as private a stitch as possible. The bottom of the cuff is invariably finished with 5 or 6 rows of sowing, which should have is piece of domett or padding underneath to throw up the sowing, which should also be done before closing the seam at forearm. The rows of stitching are usually placed the same distance apart as those on the strapping, the edges, pockets, and pocket mouths being finished with two rows of sowing in the same way. They are generally made up fly front, which is sometimes, but by no means always, stitched in with two rows of sewing, which should on no account go through the facing, as it detracts very much from the neatness of finish