Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/25

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It will not be necessary to go over the various points, as they are produced in the same way as for a Morning Coat, with the exception that they are usually made rather close-fitting and are sometimes a trifle narrower in the back. From 9 to $19 1/2$ is only $1 1/2$ inches over the breast measure, but this is $1/undefined$ an inch from the actual centre of the front of the garment, and from which the sweep to obtain the position of the neck point is cast. The gorge is lowered quite an inch, and the waist made to the nett size, as they are never worn buttoned. The lapel is cut by drawings straight line and following it 1 inch back at the bottom as shown. The top is made about 2 to $2 1/4$ inches wide and pointed upwards, and the middle or holly pert is made about $2 1/2$ to $3 1/4$ wide; the bottom is made $1 1/2$. It is generally advisable to cut these lapels on the double at the enter edge, which is arranged by taking out a large V at the top, and keeping it rather to one side. so that it shall be cut of sight; this will greatly facilitate getting a much cleaner thin edge, a feature well worthy of notice at such a part of a Dress Coat.

The skirt is cut in the came way as the Morning Coat. the length of the strap being generally fixed at $1/undefined$ of the width across at the waist, and the bottom edge fixed at about 1 inch less than a half, and the front edge slightly rounded. The width of the strap is generally made $1 1/2$ inches, and as will be noticed, it only comes to the lapel seam.

There are few young gentlemen to be found at the present time who do not patronise their school or club blazer, let it be either for cricket, lawn tennis. or boating, and few garments could be more appropriate for outdoor exercise. Being thin and comparatively loose fitting, they are not oppressive in wear, and as they are made from woollen material, they do not expose the wearer to any danger of catching cold, such as would be experienced from the use of cotton. They are made from almost every conceivable colour and combination of colours, and finished in a variety of ways; it being the general custom, when a club is started, to go to their tailor, and get him to have their colors printed specially, and reserved for their exclusive use; and in a few cases they are registered. Swaisland's generally supposed to be the best printers of this class of flannel, and their goods may be obtained from most of the best wholesale houses. There is, however, a new make of woven flannel in the market, but not having tested the some we are unable to express any opinion on it. When made from striped flannels, they are generally finished in the way indicated on the diagram with three patch pockets, sleeves lined, and facings and seams felled down, although many houses make them entirely by machine, in order to reduce the price as much an possible; the buttons are usually covered with some material. Many clubs, however, adopt a self-colour, and bind it with contrasting colours of ribbon joined together, in which case they generally have the monogram or crest of their club worked on the breast pocket, A method which is very popular with the Oxford and Cambridge College Clubs. There is just one point that requires special mention in dealing with striped flannels with more than two stripes. It is necessary to treat these the some way as if they had a way of the wool to them, i.e. split and turn one part, otherwise one side of the coat will have the pattern running differently to the other, which will be much more apparent if the third stripe is of a different width from the others.

Turning to the diagram, it will be noticed the back is cut whole, and with that exception, out exactly the some as the Lounge described previously; they are not intended to fit very closely or define the waist to a nicety, as the extra size produced by the hack being left whole, just gives it a character. If, however, it is wished to follow the figure rather more than it would be in this diagram, it will be necessary to take out rather more at $6 1/2$, 8, but this must not be done to excess, it being very much better to take out a fish under the arms to bring it to the size of waist desired, this being a very much safer plan than to reduce it too much at the side seam. The sleeve used would be the same as shown for the Lounge.