Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/24

Rh extremes of style, and recommend this method to our readers as one; that will no avoid them. Now square across from 19 to find the run of the top of the hip pleats. The sidebody may now he drawn by taking out about $1 1/2$ inches on line 17, increasing this quantity if the blades are very prominent, and vice versa if they are particularly flat. The sidebody should be nipped in slightly, say it bare $1/4$ of an inch at top, which point may be used to sweep from the back on line 19, to get the length of the bottom of sidebody, which. as will be seen. should be about $3/4$ of an inch lower than the back; the reason for this is not always apparent at first sight, but is explained. It will of course be understood that seams are taken off both back and sidebody, and as the back is hollow, the taking a $1/undefined$ inch off all up the sidearm will increase the length, as it must be apparent to anyone that as soon as you increase the diameter of a circle, the circumference must be increased as a matter of course with the sidebody, however, the same principle is applied, but in the reverse way, for that being a round, a seam taken from it shortens it; hence as the one is lengthened and the other shortened in the process of seaming; so it in of importance that the sidebody should be cut long enough to allow of this. Draw a line across from this point prallel to the waist line, which forms a capital guide to get the length of waist seam in front. The waist seam may be drawn by hollowing it over the hips about 1 inch. The underarm seam may be placed in the position considered the most effective (we prefer a narrow sidebody ourselves), and take out 1 inch at this part for a figure 4 inches smaller at waist than chest, and adding on or taking off $1/undefined$ of the disproportion at this part as the waist increases or diminishes in its relation to the chest. Now measure across to the front the waist measure, plus 2 inches, add on a button stand, and shape the front to agree with fashion or fancy.

Should be drawn by squaring down from the lower line 9 inches and out 1. These quantities are suitable for all sizes, as it produces the run of the back shirts at a given angle. which is suitable for an ordinary well-developed figure, but should be increased for a person with very prominent seat, and vice versa Draw a line from the bottom of the sidebody, through point 1 out from 9, and round the back of skirt about $1/undefined$ an inch which should be well worked forward over to the hips in making; a bare $1/undefined$ inch may he hollowed out between skirt and forepart at point 1, and a trifle may be taken out of waist seam at front. The skirt should have at least an inch of fulness beyond the combined width of sidebody and forepart; the run of the front should be made to agree with the forepart. The breast pocket is put on a level with the bottom of scye slanting slightly downwards, and at least 1 inch in front of the most forward part of scye. The sleeve as explained on diagram 9, will suit this so it will be only necessary we should turn our attention to

In order to complete the garment. Point A is the height at which the coat is desired to button and we require a collar with a $1 1/4$ stand and $1 3/4$ fall. B is a $1/undefined$ of an inch less than the height of stand above the hollowest part of the gorge, and line A B C is drawn. D is the difference between the height of stand and the depth of fall below C, and line D B A forms the crease line. D to E is the stand which is than drawn from D to the hollowest part of gorge, and following it round to G where a seam is added. The shape of the collar end at H must be left to the taste of the operator, to form it in accordance with the turn, so as to produce the effect desired. F is the depth of the fall above D, and is drawn from F to H. This is a collar system which adapts itself to almost all styles and widths of collar, from the Dress Coat to the Overcoat with the wide collar. It requires very little working up, and has the advantage of adding additional spring at the fall edge: when the fall becomes deeper, a result which must commend itself to all thoughtful minds. Of course there are styles of collar which cannot be produced by this system, and which will be treated in connection with such garments they as usually worn on. We now come to