Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/22

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These are supposed to partake of the Naval Style of Dress. The Admiral Bound Jacket being somewhat simile: to the D.B. Eton, of diagram 21; it is also used in the Merchant Service, it is, however, more a variation from the regulation Naval Dress than a copy of any authorised pattern.

Its principal features are the increased width of the lapel, more especially at waist, and the two rows of buttons. All Navel Jackets for lads have pockets placed at the aides as shown on 22, but these are always omitted from Civilian Dress, the pockets in the latter case being put in the breast. The badge on the collar is generally a matter of taste.

Comes as something new, and new that this style of front is so popular with gentlemen for their Dress Costs, we quite anticipate it becoming an established style of Youth's Dress, for evening wear, it being very smart and effective. It is also shown as a naval adaptation, having A badge on the collar and pockets at the side.

If these latter styles are desired for representations of naval uniform, the suit are as shown on diagram 26, which has three gilt uniform buttons, with cords of Russia Braid coming nearly to the bottom,whilst, if intended for ordinary Dress wear, that shown on diagram 26, will be the better; at the same time remembering what was previously stated regarding the pockets.

We now come to deal with the naval uniforms proper for the Midshipmen and Cadets, illustrated on figures 14 and 15, and diagrams 23, 24, 26 end 27, and take first.

The official regulations for this are as follows:

"Blue cloth, single breasted, with nine holes and buttons up the front, three notched holes on each cuff with buttons to correspond; stand up collar, with a white turn back on each side 2 inches long, with's notched hole and button." It is cut-exactly the some as an Eton Jacket in the back and the fronts arranged as diagram 23 from which it will be readily gathered it is cut large enough to button right up to the throat, Care should be taken to put only the regulation number of buttons up the front, 9. Welt pockets are put on either aide us shown. The only difference between this and the Cadets, is that the white turn back is omitted, and a button hole of white twist, and a uniform button placed instead. This applies to both the Round Jacket and

Which as will be seen is of the Dress Coat type, but made large enough to button; with 9 notched holes up the front, graduated as shown, the longest one being the top but one, and the bottom one being placed on the waist seam. As a belt is worn with this, it will be necessary to cut it rather smaller in the waist than ordinarily; otherwise surplus cloth would form in folds under the pressure of the belt; a hook is put at the hip to keep the belt in position. Flaps are placed on the hips with three buttons and notched holes, and are lined with white, as are the skirts; the pockets are placed in the pleat. We may state that notched holes have now become a thing of the past,a narrow Russia braid doing duty for this equally as well as the notched hole. it is very much easier put on and is consequently cheaper. A button is placed in the pleats as shown. The length of the strap of the skirt is made one-filth the entire waist, being fixed at that proportion by the Admiralty. This coat in used for both full and undress, and, as previously stated, the only difference for a cadet is the omission of the White end to the collar, and a notched hole and button put in its stead. We give a Table of the necessary articles for a cadet on entering H.M.S. Britannia, that being the ship where cadets are sent to undergo a course of training to enable them to pass the necessary examination to enter Her Majesty's Navy.

A midshipman's sea chest complete, with name in full on top, engraved on plain brass plate—length 3ft. 6in., breadth 2ft., height 2ft 8in.

(It is requested that the chest may be at Dartmouth previous to the cadets joining.)