Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/20

Rh short length as per diagram 16. Great care must be used at this stage, as the whole secret lies in knowing when and whence to begin lacing. Now proceed to lace over and under alternately, as per diagram 17, and when this surge is completed, it will present the appearance of diagram 18, when all that remains to be done in to form the loop at the top, see diagram 19, which will necessitate a half twist through half the knot, which is best done at this stage, as it is very easy to twist the wrong way it done earlier. Carefully examine to see that the braid runs alternately over and under throughout the entire knot, and if formed correct, which it will be if these directions are followed. When it is ready to be put on, its position should be, as previously quoted: top of knot about 7 inches from bottom of cuff; and as it is necessary it should appear on the top of the sleeve, it must be placed about one inch nearer the forearm Beam.

This is one of the most important styles in connection with the present work, being the garment above all others the high-class tailor is called upon to make. It bears very much the same relation to the youth that the Dress Coat does to the man, being worn on such occasions as demand full dress, although in many of our public schools it is always worn in every day wear. It in seldom or ever worn buttoned, consequently it is not cut with too much bottom stand,$3/4$ of an inch being quite enough at the bottom, the lapel at the top being quite it matter of taste, but should not be made too heavy. The better plan is to cut a pattern and turn it over at the crease row, and see that it does not come nearer the scye than $1 3/4$ inches, as it looks very old-fashioned to see a lapel coming right over the sleeve head. As generally worn all over the country, the Eton Jacket is made about $3 1/2$ latches below the natural waist and finished off with a point at the bottom of the back; as worn at Eton, however, the point is omitted and carried straight round, which makes it appear rather shorter. It is generally supposed that the Eton Boys wear the white linen collar outside the coat, and that the Harrow Boys wear it inside, whether any regulations exist in this we do not know, but believe such to be the fact. The Eton plan, however, is the one more generally adopted throughout the country, and it will be as well to note that when it is desired to wear the linen collar inside, it will be necessary to enlarge the neck to allow for this increase of size. However, as we are catering for the youths all over the country. We have given a diagram suitable for the style most generally adopted, and which is illustrated on

Dia. 20 Plate 4. Fig. 11.

As will be soon the back is cut on the crease as in the Patrol Jacket. and is made rather narrow at the waist being out about $1 1/4$ inches wide at that part, and gradually run off to the bottom, which as previously quoted is finished with a point; $1 1/2$ inches is taken out between back and sidebody, and about $3/4$ of an inch at the waist of under-arm scam. Care should be taken to allow sufficient spring for the hips, a point which sometimes causes trouble, especially as the inlay, which is inavriably left all along the bottom, contracts it. The length of the front should be made to just cover the vest in the some way as a Gent's Dress Coat, nothing appearing much worse than one too short, or one very much too long, and conveying the appearance that the lad is wearing out the jacket his older brother has grown out of; the diagram is arranged with the front end as much below waist seam as the bottom of sidebody is below point $2 3/4$ and will generally be found a safe guide, and which will also be of service to hollow the side by, this being made about 1 inch hollow from a line drawn from bottom of sidebody to the bottom of front. The lapel on this diagram is made $1 3/4$ inches wide at top, $2 1/4$ in the widest part. and $3/4$ at the bottom; the gorge in lowered 1 inch in front.

These jackets are generally made from a fine black diagonal, a kind of dress Twill or Corkscrew, have generally bound edges, the binding is never carried round the bottom, it being invariably left bluff, the inlay being turned up all along at that part, so that only the fronts, collars and cuffs are bound. This make of cloth has entirely superceded the old superfine black cloth which is hardly or ever seen. We have occasionally seen them made from Vienna or soft wool, with corded edges, but these have the exception. A good