Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/19

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In this style is to have them sewn and pressed open previous to cutting the garment, which overcomes the difficulty. As will be noticed the plant and belt are stitched on the edge in the some way as the edges are stitched, the pleats, however, are often left plain. The belt should be made the same size as the garment and a button put further back to allow of its being made smaller. The belt and pleat. Dia. 12, are usually made to agree in widths and are about $1 3/4$ or 2 inches wide for a 36 breast and of proportionate width for the smaller sizes. The pockets on this style of garment are either placed under the pleat, at breast or patch as shown on diagram 11, and as in breast pocket in the ordinary position. Variations innumerable are introduced in the method of arranging the pleats for the juvenile branch, but this we shall notice later on, under the heading of designing; but there is one style which is a good deal used for youths and men, which only has one pleat up the buck and one down each front, running into the gorge, this style is generally finished with a Prussian collar, but of course any style of collar and turn may be used. The sleeve as shown on diagram 9, is equally suitable for this as for the Lounge.

The Patrol Jacket forms quite a distinct class of garment, being a much smarter and closer-fitting garment than the ordinary Lounge, and we thought it could not be better illustrated than by trimming it in one of the most popular styles in vogue in the British Army, viz., the Infantry Blue Patrol Jacket. The Patrol Jacket was worn very much at one time by cyclists, though the Lounge in the most popular for this exercise at present. The official regulations for men, as issued by the War Office, are as follows:

"Bottom corners rounded, slit at aide, stand collar, hook and eyes down front, flat braided all round with 1 inch wide mohair braid, four drop loops of $3/8$ wide tubular braid, the top one 8 inches long, the bottom one six, to the edge of breast, with an eye at the centre as in diagram 13, on the left side the braid is carried a loop beyond the edge and olivets or barrel buttons on the right side: sideseam braided as shown, the middle of crow's toe at bottom to be 3 inches from the centre of back, and the middle of the braid at the lowest of the middle eyes 2 inches, the top crow's toe to be at the top of side seam; a plain Austrian knot is placed on the sleeve seven inches high and two and three quarters wide, and placed rather nearer the forearm seam; joined cross pockets with flaps to go in or out."

Such being the military regulations, it will at once be been that the Patrol Jacket proper is more a military than a civilian type of garment, consequently its shape must be influenced by it, and the following variations will be found necessary or advisable. The back being out whole, i.e., no back seam, it necessarily follow the back must he straight, hence line O, $28 1/2$; forms the centre of back. The shoulder seam of back is kept rather squarer, which will bring that of the forepart more sloping. The back is out 2 inches wide at the natural waist, point 17, and 3 inches wide at the bottom, so that the braiding may come just over the seam. $1 1/2$ inches is taken out between back and sidebody at waist, and run into the depth of scye line, and also slightly overlapping say $1/4$ of an inch at the bottom, 1 inch is taken out of the under-arm seam, and the chest made up to 2 or $2 1/4$ over the chest measure, the waist being done in like manner. Care must be used so as not to out the neck too low or the neck will be too large. The sleeve on diagram 9 is equally suitable. So that it will not be necessary for us to repeat instructions for cutting these.

However, is a bit of puzzle to many, and we herewith give diagrams, descriptions and directions for tying. The first thing is to cut off the necessary length of braid; a knot of the dimensions quoted from the Army Regulations for an Infantry Patrol Jacket can be completed with one yard which allows sufficient to go round top of sleeve and be joined in with the hindarm seam. Now take this length between the forefinger and thumb about six inches from the end, and from the loop as per diagram 15, then continue on with another loop, which brings hook over the other and under the