Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/18

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This and any diagram in the book may be reproduced by using a graduated tape to agree with the breast measures and applying the units in the same way as the inches are for the full size; if of the old make using a tape a size larger for the small sizes and a size smaller for the very large ones, say a $12 1/2$ tape for a 24, and a $21 1/2$, for a 44 and so on: or they may be drawn out by the scale given previously by merely using the ordinary inch tape in the manner described. This system is the same as goes throughout the book so that if the reader makes himself conversant with the principles on which this is based he will be more readily able to reproduce any garment in the present volume, by merely varying it in accordance with the lines laid down in dealing with each garment. We give the collar system later on. Although this diagram is illustrated with a collar and turn yet it is equally suitable for a Prussian, roll, or stand collar, only requiring the collar out to suit the customers' wishes in that direction. Care should be taken in making to avoid anything likely to produce fullness at the top of sideseam as owing to the placing of the seams in this style of jacket there is a difficulty in providing a sufficient receptacle for the blades and a corresponding tendency to fullness at top of sideseam, hence it is just as well to take it in a trifle just at the top and put the sleeve in tight at that part. A short collar should be religiously avoided as besides having a tendency to produce this defect, it is also a fruitful source of many others to be frequently met with in all classes of coats; but we shall refer to them in our chapter on alterations, &c., so will at once proceed to examine the characteristics of the

At the present time this is one of the most fashionable styles, and is especially suitable for youths' wear, leaving full scope for putting the buttons forward as the lad grows, a point which often has great weight with the parents. This garment is also used a good deal in H.M. Navy, being worn by almost all ranks and especially by Midshipmen and Cadets; they, however, generally omit the ticket pocket and have gilt anchor buttons, 4 up each front, one being placed under the turn; three are placed across the cuff as Dia. 10, which are the same size as those up the front. As will be noticed it is out precisely the same as the Lounge with the addition of the lapel all down the front from $2 1/2$ to $3 1/2$ inches wide. In this can it is made 3, the buttons being placed as far behind the breast line as the eye of the hole is in front, a fish is taken out at the top of label which will enable it to button up to the throat clean, this may be omitted if desired the only difference being a little extra length on the outside edge. The collar and lapel as shown on this dia. illustrate the style in which these are finished at the present time, very little space showing between them. If it is desired to make this garment from a thick pilot or nap we should advise the seam being made at least $1/2$ an inch or more larger and the cut under the arm omitted, as these think materials consume a great deal in making, and being of a heavier substance do not fall in wrinkles as readily as a thin estamene or serge.

The pockets are arranged as for the lounge.

No style of garment of a fancy kind has remained so long in favour as this, and it is worn by boys, youths, and men, in almost the same style; a great variety exists as to the style of putting on the pleats, the most popular being the one shown on the diagram and having two up the back and front, meeting at the same spot on the shoulder. It is now the pretty universal custom to out the garment as a Lounge, rather easy fitting about the waist, and to lay the pleats on, fastening them to the garment by sewing them from behind, this has proved itself the most reliable and artistic method, as it enables the cutter to arrange the pleats on the figure in whatever position may he considered the most suitable and at the same time removing any possibility of the garment being made larger or smaller by the workmen in making, an error which readily happens when the foreparts are out wide enough for the pleats to be taken from them. The most reliable method of forming.