Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/17

10 the back and forepart should touch each other on line 9, 20, and a trifle may be taken out just above where it runs into the beck scye; avoid letting the forepart come too high up into the book scye; from 1 to $1 1/2$ inches shore depth of scye line is a very good quantity. as it prevents the possibility of balance being altered by the workman, which might soon occur if the back scye ran up to a point. The forepart is made to overlap the buck $1/2$ the difference between the seat and breast measures at the bottom of the sideseam If the waist is desired to fit close at the sides and a smart fitting garment required we should take out a fish under the arm, running from the bottom of scye to the pocket mouth, of from $1/2$ to 1 inch and making the size up in front to the waist measure and 2 inches, which gives the breast line or that part of the garment which rung dawn the centre of the figure and which would be correct for hooks and eyes; lounges, however, are usually made to fasten with buttons so that it will be necessary to allow sufficient overlap. say $1 1/4$ inches. The height of the gorge at front may he made $1/6$ neck or breast, below the neck point, or to taste; and the front of jacket should be 2 of an inch longer from line 9, 20, downwards than the back and rounded off to any style desired.

Is a matter which puzzles a good many, and the plan we have found to answer well has been to make the hip pocket $1/3$ breast from the bottom of scye, and making the flap $1/2$ this distance in length and from $1 3/4$ to 2 inches Wide, shaping the front to harmonise with the front of the jacket, the ticket pocket may be placed parallel with it in front and about in the relative position to the hip pocket as shown on the diagram. The breast pocket should be placed level with the bottom of the scye for its bottom edge it is made to slant slightly down and kept at least 1 inch in front of the scye the size of this being 5 inches long by 1 in width for a 36 chest and in corresponding ratio for smaller ones. The buttons down the front should be arranged so that the bottom one comes just above the level of the hip pockets, and if possible it should be arranged to have one opposite the breast pocket.

That the sleeve should be out to lit the scye is an almost self-evident truism; yet it is one that is often ignored, with the result that they do not harmonies with each other and bad fitting sleeves are the consequence.

The sleeve system as here described is as self-varying as any system can be and one which will produce a nice hanging sleeve. Begin by drawing line 0, 1, $4 3/4$ from 0 to $4 3/4$ is the distance from centre of back to front of scye less the width of the back, in this case $4 3/4$; now mark the place where the pitches of the sleeve are desired to come; suitable positions for these are $3/4$ above level of scye in front and about $1 1/2$ below shoulder point of back. Now put the square with either arm touching these pitches, and arrange it till it is in the position in which the sleeves are desired to hang which should be as nearly as possible over the pockets, note what figures are on the square opposite the front pitch and apply this quantity by coming up from point $4 3/4$ of sleeve whatever it is, and thus find the position of point 1; now measure the distance across between the two pitches in a straight line, with the back placed in a closing position at the shoulder, and whatever that is, measure across as from 1 to 9; point $4 1/2$ is half this quantity, and $2 1/4$ one fourth and by these points the sleeve heed may be drawn; measure off the length to elbow and wrist, not forgetting that 3 seams are consumed in making up; hollow the forearm 1 inch and make the width to were which in the absence of any better guide may be fixed at $1/3$ breast for the cuff 1 inch less than half breast for the elbow; the run of the bottom of cuff may be got by drawing it at right angles to points $6 3/4$, 9. The underside is got by measuring round the scye between the two pitches and applying that quantity from $4 3/4$ to 8, hollowing it about $1/2$ inch below a level with $4 3/4$, and than taking it across almost straight.

This style of garment is one of the most suitable for boys' and youths' wear, being particularly appropriate for school use. It is usually made up as represented having 5 pockets, as shown on diagram, and an inside breast pocket. It is made to button fairly high up, the edges stitched and the cuff also stitched to form a cuff, two buttons being put on as shown.