Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/16

Rh that part at $2 1/2$, 17 being out on the crease and in putting it into the armhole point 9 goes to $11 1/2$ of the forepart being at the under arm seam.

The cuff, Dia. 5, may be reproduced either by the inch tape for the 36 size or graduated tapes for the smaller sizes. The collar. Dia. 6, is an ordinary band, and is cut on the lines of stand collar; draw line 0, 15 the length of neck plus 1 inch to allow of it buttoning, 0 to $7 1/2$ half this quantity, come up at either end 1 inch, and shape the bottom edge by a gradual curve touching the line for about 2 or 3 inches on either side of point $7 1/2$. finish by making the width of the band to any width desired. Binders are sometimes put round the armholes, being cut the same shape as the shirt at that part and are merely put on to strengthen the shirt there, and relieve it of some of the wear. Many variations may be introduced into the details of finish, &c., such as a turn down collar. &c., &c., but these we leave for personal adaption, feeling assured that any cutter of ordinary intelligence will be able to master this having once grasped the system which will act as a foundation for him to start from.

We now come to one of the most important parts in connection with the work, viz.:

'''THE LOUNGE SYSTEM. Dia 7. Figs. 6 & 7.'''

Commence by drawing line 0, 29 and mark off the various stations on it as follows: 0 to 9 depth of scye, 0 to 17 natural waist, 0 to 29 length of jacket required plus $1/2$ inch for seams, point $3 1/2$ is fixed to taste, but as a rule may be made about $1/2$ inch more than $l/2$ of 0. 9; draw lines at right angles to all these points and mark of 0 to $3 1/6$ neck, or if the neck measure has not been taken, make it $1/6$, of the half waist; at the back pitch which is about 1 or $1 1/2$ below line $3 1/2$, mark off the width of back plus seams. In the scale the seams are allowed on the back so that when working from it, it will not be necessary to allow them beyond the quantities given, but when working from the measures taken on the customers this must be done or the back will be produced narrower than was anticipated. Hollow the back at waist $3/8$ to $1/2$ inch, running out to the line at bottom; on line at 9, mark off the chest measure and from 2 to $2 1/2$; inches, varying this quantity according to the substance of the material, allowing the full $2 1/2$ inches over breast.; if the material is thick or if it is of medium weight allow 2 inches; of this about $1 1/2$ inches are consumed in seams. the remainder being an amount of room left for expansion of the body when breathing, &c., and for ease. Now come back from 20 to 12 the across chest measure which finds the front of scye.

The Neck Point.

Deduct the width of back neck from the front shoulder measure, and sweep by it from point 12; add 1 inch in this and sweep again by point 20, and wherever these area intersect or cross each other fixes the location of the neck point.

The over shoulder measure is the next to be applied, the method of doing so being to deduct whatever the back measures from 9 in a diagonal measure to the shoulder seam, put the remainder at point 12; put the finger on the tape $1 1/2$ inches up and sweep again, this gives the slope of shoulder, and it only remains to draw the shoulder seam by well rounding it and making the width to agree with a seam less than the back from $3/4$ to $7 1/4$.

Having now practically fixed the top, bottom, front, and back, of scye, we only have to connect the various points; the shape of a scye should as nearly resemble the shape of a horseshoe as possible, though if special attention is paid to any particular part it should be to make the front well hollow at * and keep it well up at the top of sideseam. Some may feel curious to know the reason we place the finger $1 1/2$ inches up from the level of scye and sweeping from * in applying the over shoulder measure. The reason for doing so is, that we always endeavour to apply the measures in the same way as they are taken, which would not be the case if a sweep was taken from point 12, the tape would then cross the scye, a feature quite impossible in taking the measure on the figure.

The shaping of the sideseam is the next operation, and is one which has much to do with the harmony of the jacket when finished; the plan illustrated here is to fix the width of back at natural waist at $1/undefined$ chest.; i.e., the half chest. and taking out from 1 to $1 1/2$ inches at that part, seldom more than that as it is apt to throw a fullness at the top of sideseam;