Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/15

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 * The cross chest 1 inch less than $1/4$.
 * And the over shoulder, 1 inch less than half.

Another Way of Proving these

Is to take $1/undefined$ scye and $1/undefined$ natural waist for the scye depth, the front shoulder at this quantity plus one twelfth breast and $1/undefined$ an inch, the over shoulder by adding these two together and deducting $1 1/2$ times the shoulder slope previously fixed by $1/undefined$ of the natural waist, and the across chest measure in the same way as above, for example, a 36 breast with natural waist at 18 and scye at 18 would be as follows: $1/undefined$ scye and $1/undefined$ natural waist equal 9, this quantity plus one twelfth breast and $1/undefined$ inch $12 1/2$. These two added together equal $21 1/2$ less $1 1/2$ times shoulder slope $4 1/2$ equal 17, across chest 1 inch less than $1/undefined$ equal 8, so that these four measures can be calculated in this manner if no opportunity occurs for measuring and the scale is not at hand. In such as case, however, it is better to have a set of block patterns to use from, drafted out to the measures in this scale which will be found quite reliable and better than the calculated divisions of the breast, as it is a generally recognised fact that various breast measures have different charcteristics, each of which has been specially treated of in this scale.

FOR PRODUCING THE VARIOUS GARMENTS

We do not think we could begin on any more appropriate garment than

Begin by drawing line 0,36 and mark of the length desired. Make 0 to $2 1/2$, $1/undefined$ neck and continue across to 9, $1/undefined$ breast; come down from 0 to $2 1/4$, $1/undefined$ natural waist to find top of shoulder, and draw a line across to top, and shape shoulder from $2 1/2$ to 9. 0 to 3; $1/2$ an inch more than $1/undefined$ neck and draw the gorge as shown from points 3 to $2 1/2$. keeping it hollow as illustrated, or if a guide is wanted, draw a line from $2 1/2$ to 3 and midway between these two points hollow it $3/4$ of an inch. 0 to 9 is $1/undefined$ breast, draw a line across to $11 1/2$ making it a $1/4$ breast and $2 1/2$ inches for a moderately close fitting shirt or 3 inches for a looser style, hollow scye by coming in 1 in. from line at 9 as point 1, and shape side seam to taste or fancy, allow 2 inches all down either side of the front to avoid having a seam at the pleats for button holes and button stand, or if a white shirt is desired cut it to allow of a front being inserted as per dotted line, which may be varied to taste.

Is cut by the front; raising the back neck half the distance from 0 to 3, and cutting it $1/undefined$ inch wider at scye, as per diagram, the back part should be cut on the crease or seams allowed, otherwise the neck will be too small. The bottom of the yoke may be adapted to taste.

The back is also cut from the front taking it across straight from the shoulder point and leaving a good $2 1/2$ inches down the centre of back to be gathered or pleated into the yoke, the scye should be filled in a good inch and the bottom made about 2 inches longer than the front.

Draw line 0, 9, 0, 17; 0 to $2 1/2$ is the same as the distance from 9 to $11 1/2$ of the forepart, 0 to 9 is the half scye plus whatever is desired to be left for fulness or pleats on the shoulders; $2 1/2$ to 17 is the length of sleeve less the width of yoke and length of cuff; and the wrist as at 17, 6 to taste varying according to the fulness desired to be put in the wristband. Both parts of the sleeves are cut alike,