Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/10

Rh Corpulent Type of Figure,

Which, although vastly increased in size, yet has only the smallest amount at the sides and back, fully two-thirds, or even more of the corpulency going on the front. Boys frequently partake of this build, especially the juveniles, but this will be readily gathered from the following table, which shows.

The Development of Growth,

From $2 1/2$ years of age to 20, and which has been compiled and tested in the course of our practical experience at the cutting board. It has been arranged in accordance with the average age of a given size and height, which will, we have no doubt, be helpful to the trade generally, as it often happens that the cutter has to execute his orders from the most meagre measures which have been taken by parents and which are frequently more misleading than otherwise.

That this scale will be useful we have no doubt, and by working from it much better results can be obtained than by any divisions of the breast measure, for it is based on what has long been an acknowledged fact, that at birth the head is nearly one-fourth the total height of the body, whilst at 7 or 8 it bears the relation of one-seventh, and at 16 it bears the same relative propotions as in the adult, which is differently computed at from 1 to 7½ to 1 to 8. A careful examination of this scale will also show how short the legs are in childhood as compared with the relations they bear as the child grows into the youth and the youth to the man.

It will also be noticed that between the ages of 2 and 4 the child grows in height very rapidly, gaining 9 inches in height as compared with 2 in the chest, a rate which is much in advance of his development in after years, and it will be well if all who wish to make juvenille clothing a speciality carefully study this table, as it shows most accurately the development of growth, from the baby to the young man, and, althouh different physiologists give various results of their observations, yet we believe such divergences as exist between their tables may be traced to the varying conditions under which they were taken; still, the table as given will be found correct for the average English youth.

From the very earliest records of art and artists we find the figure has been divided by them into so many parts, and by careful observation and measurements taken on a large number they have worked out a series of relative proportions, which should be of service to the tailor in producing a model pattern. Consequently we take the following from one of the best works published on this subject entitled "Anatomy for Artists" by Dr Fau:—

" is so wonderfully constructed that many parts agree with each other in measurement—e.g, the head and span, hand and face, nose and thumb, &c.; thus it is possible to use various parts in measuring the figure. In this table of proportions the unit is the head.