Page:The American Cyclopædia (1879) Volume X.djvu/84

 LACE Louis XIV. a great demand was created for this lace, which became known as the point de France and afterward as the point d'AlenQon. But its high price limited its use to. the rich, who now bought this' instead of the Venetian laces. After the success of this enterprise, lace fabrics were established in various parts of France, and the number of lace-workers in- creased with great rapidity. At the beginning of the 18th century the annual production of lace in France was estimated at 8,000,000 francs. The celebrity of Spanish point lace in early times was scarcely less than that of the Flemish or Italian; but the manufacture has declined. Little is known concerning the ori- gin of the manufacture of lace in Great Britain ; but as the importation of this article was pro- hibited in 1483, it is presumed that the manu- facture existed at that time. In 1640 lace making was a nourishing industry in Bucking- hamshire, and in the 17th and 18th centuries it extended over a larger area than at present. Lace consists of two parts, the ground and the flower pattern, or " gimp." In some cases, how- ever, the design is not worked upqn a ground, but the different parts are connected with threads. The flower or other ornamental pattern may be made together with the ground, as in Valenciennes or Mechlin, or separately, and then worked in or sewn on (applique). Lace made by hand is divided into point and pillow. The former, termed needle point, point d Vaiguille, &c., is made with the needle on a parchment pattern. Point is also applied to lace produced by a particular stitch. Pillow lace is so termed from the pillow or cushion which for more than three centuries has been used in making lace. On this pillow is fixed a stiff piece of parchment, upon which the pat- tern is marked by means of small holes pricked in it, through which pins are stuck into the cushion. The threads for the lace are wound upon bobbins formerly bones, whence the term bone lace. By the twisting and crossing of these threads around the pins, the ground of the lace is made ; while the pattern or figure is formed by interweaving a thread thicker than that forming the groundwork, according to the design indicated on the parchment. The designs are prepared by persons who de- vote themselves to this branch, while their execution is intrusted generally to women. Sometimes as many as 12 of these are em- ployed upon the same design or figure, each having a different portion to produce. Gui- pure ^ is _ a term so extensively applied to lace that it is difficult to limit its meaning. It is, however, a lace without ground, the designs be- ing joined by " brides," or large coarse stitches. The names of the different varieties of lace have been derived from the places where the manufacture originated or has been carried on with the greatest success. The most noted products are now those of Belgium, France, and England. In Belgium 150,000 women are said to be employed in lace making, the ma- jority of whom work at home. Throughout the country there are nearly 900 lace schools, many of which are in the convents. One of the most important centres of this industry is Brussels. The thread used, which is made at Hal and Rebecq-Rognon, of flax grown in Brabant, is of extraordinary fineness. The finest quality is spun in dark underground rooms, to avoid the dry air, which causes the thread to break, and to secure the best light, which is done by admitting a single beam and directing it upon the work. It is the fine- ness of the thread, as well as the delicacy of the workmanship, which has given to the best Brussels lace such celebrity and rendered it so costly. It is often sold at $1,200 a pound, and has been mentioned as high as $2,500. In the old Brussels lace the design was worked in with the ground. The applique lace is now extensively produced, the designs being made on the pillow and afterward attached to the ground with the needle. Mechlin lace, which has been made at Mechlin, Antwerp, Lierre, and Turnhout, formerly had a wide celebrity ; but the manufacture has long been on the de- cline, though it appears to have partially re- vived. This has been called the prettiest of laces. It is fine and transparent, and is best adapted to summer use, being most effective when worn over color. It is made in one piece on the pillow, with various fancy stitches intro- duced. Its distinguishing feature is the flat thread which forms the flower, and gives to this lace the character of embroidery ; it is hence sometimes called Iroderie de Malines. The most important branch of the pillow-lace trade in Belgium is the manufacture of Valen- ciennes, which, having become extinct in its native city, has attained great prosperity in Flanders. This lace is now chiefly made at Ypres, Bruges, Courtrai, Menin, Ghent, and Alost. The productions of Ypres are of the finest quality and most elaborate workmanship. Valenciennes lace is made upon the pillow, the same kind of thread being used for the pattern and the ground. It is remarkable for the beauty of its ground, richness of design, and evenness of tissue. It is said that more Va- lenciennes lace is used than any other kind ; but the productions of this century are not equal in quality to those of the last. Gram- mont, Enghien, and Binche are also important centres of the lace industry. The last few years have witnessed a marked development of the manufacture throughout Belgium, and now white and black point and pillow lace is made in every province of the kingdom. It is estimated that there are 500,000 lace makers in Europe, of whom nearly one half are em- ployed in France. Almost all of the latter work at home. Of the French laces, the most noted is the point d'Alencon, which has had a wide celebrity for more than two centuries, and has been styled the queen of lace. It is made entirely by hand with a fine needle upon a parchment pattern, in small pieces which are