Page:The Amateur's Greenhouse and Conservatory.djvu/274

256

Shrubs to be forced should be taken to the greenhouse or to a warm pit first to prepare them, and the first thing needful is to thoroughly soak their roots, which are often very dry; see also that they are not heavily laden with flower buds, and that they are in proper trim as to training, &c., both to look well when in flower and to carry their blossoms safely. Hard-wooded plants must have fire-heat during frosty weather, but it must not rise above 40° at night, and 50° by day. Soft-wooded plants may be kept growing freely, but not at a high temperature, which is exhaustive of plants, and productive of red spider. Hang strips of worsted netting over the ventilators, to break the force of cold winds. Revise sticks and labels and wires used for training, &c., and complete various odd jobs to leave all clear for the hurry of spring work. Keep succulents quite dry. The principal flowers new are salvias, jasminum nudiflorum, fuchsias, cinerarias, primulas, genistas, deutzias, crocuses, and hyacinths. To succeed these there should be in the forcing pit or stove kalmias, azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, lilacs, weigelias, daphnes, roses, double-flowering plums and peaches, and Andromeda floribunda. Therm. 45° average, varying from 35° by night to 55° by day.

Fire-heat may be used more liberally now, as there is more light, and many early subjects are advancing into bloom. Put cinerarias, primulas, and other soft-wooded, early blooming plants, as near the glass as possible, and where they can be freely ventilated on fine days. Give plenty of water to everything that is growing freely. Hard-wooded plants that have been kept dry all winter will probably need to be plunged to the rim of the pot in a vessel of tepid water,