Page:Textile fabrics; a descriptive catalogue of the collection of church-vestments, dresses, silk stuffs, needle-work and tapestries, forming that section of the Museum (IA textilefabricsde00soutrich).pdf/93

 often called Dorneck—a word variously spelt as Darnec, Darnak, Darnick, and sometimes even Darness.

The gild of the Blessed Virgin Mary at Boston had a care cloth of silke dornex and church furniture. The "care cloth" was a sort of canopy held over the bride and bridegroom as they knelt for the nuptial blessing, according to the Salisbury rite, at the marriage mass. At Exeter it was used in chasubles for orphreys. A specimen of Dornex may be seen, No. 7058, p. 129. See also York Fabric Rolls, pp. 291, 297, 298, 300, 305.

Buckram, a cotton textile, has a history and a reputation somewhat varied.

In our oldest inventories mention is often made of a "panus Tartaricus" or Tartary cloth, which was, if not always, at least often purple. Asia, especially in its eastern borders, became famous for the fine textiles it wove out of cotton, and dyed in every colour. Cities got for themselves a reputation for some especial excellence in their looms, and as Mosul had the name of Muslin from that place given to the fine and delicate cotton webs it wrought, so the term of buckram for another sort of cotton textile came from the city of Bokhara in Tartary where this cloth was made. All along the middle ages buckram was much esteemed for being costly and very fine, and consequently fit for use in church vestments, and for secular personal wear. John Grandison, consecrated bishop of Exeter, 1327, gave to his cathedral flags of white and red buckram; and among the five very rich veils for covering the moveable lectern in that church, three were lined with blue "bokeram." As late as the beginning of the sixteenth century this stuff was held good enough for lining to a black velvet gown for a queen, Elizabeth of York. The coarse thick fabric which now goes by the name was anything but the olden production known as "bokeram."

Burdalisaunder, Bordalisaunder, Bourde de Elisandre, with other varieties in spelling, is a term often to be met with in old wills and church inventories. In the year 1327 Exeter had a chasuble of Bourde de Elisandre of divers colours. It was wide enough for half a piece to form the adornment of a high altar.

The difficulty of understanding what this textile was will vanish when we remember that in Arabic "bord" to this day means a striped cloth; and we know, both from travellers and the importation of the textile