Page:Textile fabrics; a descriptive catalogue of the collection of church-vestments, dresses, silk stuffs, needle-work and tapestries, forming that section of the Museum (IA textilefabricsde00soutrich).pdf/46

 "examitum," as the writer still names the silk, was much used for vestments in Evesham abbey, as we gather from the "Chronicon" of that house, published lately for the Master of the Rolls. About the same period, among the best copes, chasubles, and vestments in St. Paul's, London, many were made of "sametum;" so Master Radulph de Baldock chose to call it in his visitation of that church as its dean, 1295. As we observed just now, these rich silks, which were in all colours, with a warp so stiff, became richer still from having a woof of golden thread, or, as we should now say, being shot with gold. But years before, "examitum" was shortened into "samet;" for among the nine gorgeous chasubles bequeathed to Durham cathedral by its bishop, Hugh Pudsey, 1195, there was the "prima de rubea samete nobiliter braudata cum laminis aureis et bizanciis et multis magnis perlis et lapidibus pretiosis." About a hundred years afterwards the employment of it, after its richest form, in our royal wardrobes, has been pointed out just now, p. xxviii., &c.

In that valuable inventory, lately published, of the rich vestments belonging to Exeter cathedral, 1277, of its numerous chasubles, dalmatics, tunicles, besides its seventy and more copes, the better part were made of this costly tissue here called "samitta;" for example: "casula, tunica, dalmatica de samitta—par (vestimentorum) de rubea samitta cum avibus duo capita habentibus;" "una capa samitta cum leonibus deauratis." In a later document, 1327, this precious silk is termed "samicta."

Our minstrels did not forget to array their knights and ladies in this gay attire. When Sir Lancelot of the Lake brought back Gawain to King Arthur:—

Launcelot and the queen were cledde In robes of a rich wede, Of samyte white, with silver shredde:

The other knights everichone, In samyte green of heathen land, And their kirtles, ride alone.

In his "Romaunt of the Rose," Chaucer describes the dress of Mirthe thus:—

Full yong he was, and merry of thought And in samette, with birdes wrought,