Page:St. Nicholas (serial) (IA stnicholasserial321dodg).pdf/356

250 so it will be an easy matter to turn the sled when there is a heavy weight on the plank.

The sled is steered by a rope and foot-pieces as shown. The rear sled is attached to the plank by means of a block and bolts. Two triangular hard-wood blocks, one inch in thickness, with the grain running vertically, are screwed fast to the inner sides of the runners, as shown at B in Fig, 2; and through holes in the upper end a long half-inch bolt is passed from side to side. This bolt fits into a groove made in the under side of the block that is attached to the plank; and across the groove, in several places, straps of iron are fastened, as shown in the inverted block at C in Fig. 2.

A hinge-joint is the result, and to prevent the rear sled from dropping too far when jumping over a bump, a rope should be passed under the forward cross-piece and attached to a staple driven in the under side of the plank. The plank can be padded with hair from an old mattress, and covered with a strip of carpet nailed all around the edges of the board.

Cross-pieces screwed fast to the under side of the plank will act as foot-rests for the boys, and with a coat or two of paint this bob-sled will be ready for use.

hill-coasting some boys prefer bob-sleds and coasters: but in the extreme Northern States and throughout Canada the plain toboggan is the favorite.



The toboggan may be 16 feet long, and should be 18 inches wide—although one of 8 to 10 feet long will probably be found more serviceable. The bottom is made of three or four thin hickory boards ¼ of an inch thick. The boards are fastened with battens of hard wood 2 inches wide and ¾ of an inch thick—either brass screws or copper rivets being used, the bottom of the runners being countersunk to admit the head of the screw or rivet.

For the side-rails use strips of hickory ¾ of an inch square at the end, and raise them from the battens by means of small blocks about 2 inches high. This will enable the boy to insert his fingers under the rails and get a firm hold of them even with thick gloves on. Fasten the strips with a bolt and nut running through the rail, block, batten, and runner—of course being sure to countersink the head.

Cut notches in the projecting ends of the front batten, as shown in Fig. 4, so that ropes can be lashed fast to the stick, as shown in Figs 3 and 4.

Steam the boards between the front end and the first batten, or pour boiling-water over both sides of the boards; then gradually bend the wood up, and, with the ropes as a help to hold the boards in place, continue the wetting and bending until the proper curve has been gained, or about as shown in Figs. 3 and 4. Fasten the ropes to the small blocks on the second batten, and when the wood is dry sandpaper it smooth and give it several good coats of varnish. It will be found that after the toboggan has been used some time the bottom will become very smooth, especially if it has been used on icy hills. Many boys prefer tobogganing to sledding, for the reason that, the boards being so thin and flexible, slight inequalities in the ground are easily felt and the sensation of speedy flight is emphasized. Plain, strongly made cushions will be found a welcome addition to a toboggan, though these should be dried at night if wet.

runners are made of hickory boards 8 to 10 feet long and ¼ of an inch thick. If the extreme width is to be 22 inches, each runner should be 7 inches wide. The three hard-wood bridges are 22 inches long and 4 inches high, and shaped as in Fig. 5. The seat is 8 inches