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CHAP. XII.] most uncomfortable and objectionable way, and in which the shoulders are frequently drawn forward, diminishing the capacity of the chest. Jackets or ulsters should always be worn by growing girls; they should be fitted like dresses, and should not be of heavy materials; heavy cloths are generally weighted up with cotton or rubbish.

Tweeds and the soft Scotch Cheviot cloths make good walking dresses, and ulsters or jackets. The tailor has generally a good selection of them from which to choose, and they should be chosen for their lightness and warmth. Very pretty tweeds are now made from two colours of the natural wool, and are consequently preferable to dyed materials. All garments which can be made by a tailor should be so made. For tailors are not only more accurate in their fit than dressmakers, but they are also more attentive to instructions, and less "pig-headed," if I may be allowed to use that very suggestive expression.

When furs are worn, as they may be with advantage in cold weather, provision ought to be made for their ventilation. Heavy trimmings for jackets, as for dresses, should be avoided, and the bead trimming, now so fashionable, is especially unadvisable in this respect.

For bonnets or hats, bead trimmings are also bad, as their weight on the head is most pernicious, and the charming light summer hats and bonnets now in fashion are too frequently spoiled, from a health point of view, by the addition of a quantity of beads.