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182 of the petticoats rendered it absolutely necessary to cover the legs, and the pantaloon became universal. Children's frocks had for a long time been made quite short, and when the little skirts were by means of hoops set out from the figure, it became necessary to have an efficient covering for the sake of appearance, as well as to prevent cold from striking the body; this led to more substantial drawers being made and fastened at the side, according to the present fashion for children.

When drawers were thus adopted chemises were shortened, and this was the first step in the evolution of the divided dress. Afterwards came the Bloomer movement, when it was boldly affirmed that European ladies should take a lesson from their sisters in the East, and adopt Oriental trousers; but the feeling against the Bloomer costume was very strong, for though it had many good points about it, it represented too violent a change from the fashion of the time, and ladies would not adopt it for fear of appearing ridiculous. Reform, as I have said before, to be effective must be gradual, and it takes some time for the public to become accustomed to a new idea even in dress.

Ever since the Bloomer costume, however, the idea has been gaining popularity, although but slowly, and at the Health Exhibition at South Kensington several divided dresses of the most pronounced type were shown, and met with favourable comment; some of these were very attractive, some not. For example, the Rocky Mountain