Page:Repository of Arts, Series 1, Volume 01, 1809, January-June.djvu/105

Rh, Bajæ, Pozzuoli, and Mount Posilipo on the left; Vesuvius and Portici on the right; St. Elmo and Capo di Monte in the rear; a prospect celebrated by every traveller for its grandeur and sublimity, yet far exceeding any description I had read of it: in my estimation, it is indeed beyond the power of language to describe. A panorama of Naples would be a high treat to our London loungers, and the materials for its execution might be procured at a trifling expence fron some of the skilful scene-painters in this place.

Having come from Messina, the quarantine formalities were brief. As soon as I once more felt myself on terra firma, my enquiries were for a French inn, in conformity to the advice I received at Messina from a British merchant, who having several times travelled over Italy, observed, that to travellers who were not rich, the inns kept by Frenchmen proved a desirable medium between the expensive cleanliness of English hotels abroad, and the cheap filth of native accommodations. The house of Madame Gasse, on Mount Oliveto, being recommended to me, I enquired for a porter to carry my small portmanteau, pistols, &c. In an instant four (more than half-naked) Lazzaroni grasped the four separate parcels of my baggage, and were ready to start with me to the city. I remonstrated in vain that the whole was but a moderate load for a lad of fifteen: a simultaneous and unintelligible jargon of the four savages was all the answer I received, and to which I had no alternative but that of submission, fully expecting to see my property travel in as many different directions. In this suspicion, however, I was fortunately mistaken; bag and baggage arrived safe with their owner at Madame Gasee's. The reward of their labour was the next point to be adjusted, and there, as the vulgar phrase is, I was a match for them. To the one that carried the portmanteau, as chief of the expedition, I handed three carlins (about 15d.), with the liberty of recompensing his associates according to their respective merits. This suggestion he obeyed moat literally, for he set off in an instant with all the money in his pocket, leaving the other three on my hands, clamorously insisting upon immediate payment. Seeing no other way to rid myself of their importunities, I adroitly shitted the scene of action to the passage, slipt into my room again, and bolted the door. Their cries were now converted into a complete war-whoop, which brought up some persons belonging to the house, who, on my explaining to them from within the matter at issue, fairly turned the whole of their Lazzaroniships out of doors.

A rencontre like this, you may well suppose, dear T. was not calculated to bias my first impressions in favour of a people, with whom I intended to make some stay. The succeeding adventure, however, although another—but gentler—species of imposition, most seasonably corrected the irritated state of my feelings. A Franciscan friar, with a charming nosegay and a basket containing three oranges, meekly stepped in: "The prior and brothers of our congregation have favoured me with the grateful task of offering to you, illustrious Sir, our congratulations on your safe arrival